1862.] An account of Upper and Lower SuwM. 275 



appearance east of the Khaibar in the fifteenth century of the Chris- 

 tian Era, and not before the time of Alexander of Macedon, as the 

 oracle of the " News of the Churches," and his compeers are 

 foolish enough to attempt to make people believe, contrary to his- 

 torical proof. 



The females of Suwat are not veiled. When they meet a man 

 advancing along a road, they look down modestly and pass on ; but 

 the younger women turn their backs generally, and come to a stand 

 still, until the man has passed by. They are, however, very plain, 

 but still look like Afghans ; but the men bear little resemblance to 

 that fine and handsome race in form and feature ; for they are dark 

 in complexion, and emaciated in appearance. During our journey 

 this was frequently remarked ; for they appeared more like the 

 Gujars of the Samah or Plain, below the mountains. If Durkhana'i 

 was at all like the present race of Suwati maidens, we must suppose 

 Adam Khan to have been crazy to have fallen in love with her. I 

 was told, however, by travellers, who had resided in the valley for 

 some time, that, now and then, some very beautiful countenances 

 may be seen ; but I place little faith on what they say ; for, when I have 

 inquired what they consider beautiful, I never found their ideas come 

 up to my standard of good looks. 



In the morning, the Suwatis breakfast on a dish called aogrrah in 

 Pushto, which is made by boiling rice to a dry state, and then 

 mixing buttermilk with it until it assumes the consistence of por- 

 ridge. It is eaten with a spoon. In the middle of the day, they 

 make their dinner off unleavened bread, and greens sprinkled with a 

 little salt ; but use no clarified butter. In the evening they again 

 take aogrrah for supper. Clarified or other butter and meat they do 

 not eat, unless a guest or a stranger should drop in, and then not a 

 mouthful scarcely ; for they only kill a fowl for six persons ! If such 

 be the criterion in the house of a Chief, as we found, nothing but 

 aogrrah, dry bread, and greens, without butter, can be expected at 

 the board of the humbler villagers. This may account for their 

 weakly looking appearance. 



The lower ranges of hills, on both sides of the valley, are destitute 

 of trees, but are covered with grass ; and viewing them from the 

 central parts, one would fancy they were covered with velvet, they 

 appear so beautiful. The next, or highest ranges on either side are 



