1862.] Journal of a trip in the Silchim Himalaya, 465 



ers, however, they soon became reconciled- and appeared to take 

 considerable interest in our culinary operations. 



Our host had been a cripple for twenty-two years from tbe effects of 

 a hatchet cut, but this did not deter him from soliciting medicine to 

 cure him. The females all left before we turned in for the night, but 

 mine host remained and drank whiskey toddy which made him very 

 restless all night. We had most of us become very bad sleepers, and 

 very little disturbed us, so what with mine host passing in and out 

 and the fighting and incessant squeaking of young pigs under the 

 floor, we got very little sleep. 



As this is the last village towards the snow, the coolies wanted a 

 halt which was not conceded. Before starting we purchased three 

 maunds of rice, four fowls and some eggs, and distributed some glass 

 beads and buttons amongst the members of our host's family, and 

 presented a metallic snuff box' to the Doobclee Llama, from whom 

 we bought a yak for 12 Eupees. We left Eksum at 9.30., The first 

 part of the road was good, but it soon became very bad. It lay along 

 the side of an almost precipitous hill, where a false step would often 

 have precipitated the traveller many feet headlong down the kudd 

 towards the Ratong, the roaring of whose waters below was very 

 audible. At 11 A. M., we passed the beautiful water-falls of Bara- 

 barong, dashing headlong down a precipice over immense blocks of 

 gneiss in situ. The water was clear as crystal. 



The ascent on the opposite side was very difficult : we were some- 

 times obliged to scramble upon all fours, at others to mount by steps 

 cut in upright posts, or along saplings slung over precipitous parts. 

 In a few places the yak herdsmen have cut foot-steps in the solid 

 rock for the convenience of travellers, who would often find it diffi- 

 cult to proceed without such assistance. The hills are very precipi- 

 tous, as is the case in all the back ranges near the snow in Sikkim. 

 The range on which we were, was thickly covered with forest trees and 

 underwood, it was only occasionally we obtained a peep at the noble 

 capped mountain across the Ratong. We encamped in a very jung- 

 ly place in the midst of forest, at a spot called Joaboo, near a small 

 mountain torrent. We wished to go on a little further to Neebee, but 

 were prevented, for want of water at that place. Although the whole 

 distance was not more than seven miles, the march was a fatiguing one 

 for the baggage coolies who arrived late in the evening. We all 



3 p 



