478 Journal of a trip in the Sikkim Himalaya. [No. 5, 



Simpson and Macpherson left long before daybreak with the 

 intention of walking into Darjeeling, a distance of about thirty-six 

 miles, which they duly accomplished, stopping only to bathe in the 

 Rumman. 



Mine host the Llama was very early engaged in his matutinal 

 devotions, but stopped short in the midst of his prayers and ringing 

 of bells to drink a cup of cocoa, which he seemed to relish with great 

 gusto. A young mother, with an infant at the breast and a defici- 

 ency of milk, came in the morning to the Llama, who by a prolonged 

 blowing of short puffs of breath on the naked breasts, was supposed 

 to have administered an effectual remedy. Such is the deception 

 practised on the minds of these simple people by their spiritual 

 guides. 



Kemble and I, not being in a hurry, left Rinchingpoong at 8.30. 

 A. M., crossed the Rishee at 10 a. m., and the Rishee cultivation 

 where our first camp was at 10.45 A. M., and at 2 p. m. put up in a 

 hut by the road side near a very small stream about 1000 feet above 

 the Eiuttoo. At Rishee we observed a very large flock of Hornbills. 



23rd November, 1861. — Left our hut at 7 A. M. and reached the 

 Eumman at 9.30, crossing by a good substantial bridge just completed 

 by the sappers. Reached Goke Guard house at 10.30, halted 15 minutes* 

 Reached Little Rungeet river at noon, where we found our ponies in 

 waiting. Reached Darjeeling at 2.30 p. m. Observed many clearances 

 being made for the cultivation of tea along Tugoor spur, &c. 



The coolies who accompanied us consisted of two Lepchas, two Lim- 

 boos and twenty-one Sikkim Bhooteeas, almost all of whom, as well as 

 their Sirdar named Tinley, were inhabitants of that portion of Sikkim 

 to the west of the Great Rungeet traversed by us. No men could be- 

 have better than they did, the words "burra dikh" and "tukleef," so 

 common in the mouths of Hindustanis and Bengalis never escaped 

 theirs, neither did complaints of any kind. Even in sickness, or when 

 suffering from extreme cold, or sore legs, or chapped hands and feet, 

 there was no grumbling. They were always ready to perform their 

 work with a cheerfulness and light-heartedness quite refreshing to 

 witness, after being accustomed to deal with the unmanly and dis- 

 contented inhabitants of the plains, particularly of Bengal. They 

 all readily and gladly partook of any remnants of food we were able 

 to spare them, as did all the villagers in whose houses we put up. 



