\66 



CROSS TEXTURE. 



Cross 



Texture. 



Plate. 

 CCXiX. 

 figs. I, % 



discussed through the medium of the press, will be 

 found in Plate CCXIX., which contains eight illustra- 

 tions, two Figures being devoted to each species ; the 

 first exhibiting it in its open state, or in that which as- 

 similates it to the common principles of texture ; the 

 second in that crossed or twined state which consti- 

 tutes its generic peculiarity. 



The common linau, or gauze loom, is exhibited in 

 profile elevation in Figs. 1. and 2. The posts of the 

 loom, of which two are visible, are distinguished by 

 AA. and the connecting cross rail, or cape, by BB. 

 The roller, or beam, upon which the warp is rolled, 

 appears at C ; and the balance weights, by which the 

 tension of the warp is preserved, are at D. The recei- 

 ving roller, upon which the cloth is wound when wo- 

 ven, is at E ; the heddles are at F, and the treddles, or 

 moving levers, are below at G. In Fig. 1. the treddle 

 is represented as having its centre of motion nearly 

 under the weaver's feet, as is customary in most spe- 

 cies of light texture. In Fig 2. the centre of motion 

 is reversed, so that the pressure of the foot may operate 

 on the extremity of the lever to increase the mechani- 

 cal power. In crossed textures the latter is the most 

 advantageous way of applying the power ; for although 

 the warp itself be light, and such as would oppose lit- 

 tle resistance to the power of rising and sinking in pa- 

 rallel lines, the physical resistance which the cross rings 

 oppose to the moving power, requires a great addition- 

 al impulse to overcome it. The reversed treddles, there- 

 fore, are commonly adopted with evident propriety. 



The heddles being the part of the apparatus by which 

 the necessary motions are communicated to the warp, 

 upon their construction depends all the varieties of tex- 

 ture, and those employed for crossing being very dif- 

 ferent from all others, it becomes an object of the first 

 importance to every person who wishes to acquire a 

 competent knowledge of this branch of the art, either 

 theoretically or practically, to be well acquainted with 

 the nature of then- construction. In general, for the 

 coarser kinds of cross weaving, the common linked or 

 elasped heddle is employed ; and the difference consists 

 in no alteration of the heddle itself, but in the way in 

 which the warp is drawn through it, and the addition 

 which it is necessary to make, in order to fit it for the 

 special end to which it is to be applied In some 

 kinds the heddles are made with eyes knotted in them ; 

 «uid where the friction is very great, in consequence of 

 the crossings, perforated beads of smooth round glass 

 are used, both for convenience and durability. Besides 

 the heddle, a second apparatus similar to it is used ; and 

 this, whether with or without a bead, receives and con- 

 ducts the warp thread in its various crossings. In the 

 most common kinds of linau and catgut, it is merely 

 one half, or one link of the common clasped heddle, 

 and is stretched upon a single shaft of wood. These, in 

 the figures, are distinguished by the numerals 1 and 2. 

 By inspection it will be seen that the linau, or gauze 

 mounting, consists of four leaves of complete heddles, 

 marked F, and called standards, and the half leaves 1 

 and 2. The warp of a gauze is not drawn between the 

 links as in common weaving, so that it may be either 

 raised or sunk, but above or below the clasp, so that 

 the motion of the heddle affect? it only in one direction. 

 Thus the thread which is above may be raised, but can- 

 not be sunk by the heddle through which it is drawn, 

 and, vice versa, the same takes place with that which 

 is drawn below the clasp. These heddles, or standards, 

 are distinguished by the numerals 3, 4, 5, 6', in both 

 figures. In the standards S and %; which are in front, 



the warp does not pass at all through any part of the 

 standard, but the half leaf 1 passes above the clasp 

 through each heddle of the standard 3, and through 

 this half heddle the warp thread is drawn. As this 

 half leaf rises independently of the standard, but never 

 sinks unless in conjunction with it, the shaft is below 

 and in front of both standards. The motion of the 

 half leaf 2 being exactly the reverse of the former, the 

 shaft > placed above. Between the standards 3, 4, and 

 the leaves 5, 6', a greater distance is allowed than 

 could conveniently take place in the figure, and here 

 the two threads of warp, which are contiguous, are 

 crossed over each other, instead of being drawn paral- 

 lel as in other kinds of weaving, that to the left hand 

 being generally above, and that to the right hand be- 

 low, although this is merely the con m on form for the 

 sake of convenience, for the order of every part might 

 be inverted, and the same effect would still be produced. 

 When the half leaves are raised and sunk, the warp is 

 parallel like that of common weaving, excepting the 

 cross which bikes place between the standards, and 

 when they are kept tight the warp is twisted like a 

 rope. It will be apparent by an attentive inspection of 

 Fig. 1 . that the front standard or leaf 3 is sunk, and 

 the half leaf raised to admit the warp thread between 

 the half heddle or lam and the standard, and that the 

 reverse takes place with the standard 4, which is raised, 

 the half heddle 2 being sunk. These standards and 

 half heddles in this case communicate no motion to the 

 warp, but merely yield to it, or rather are removed to 

 prevent them from opposing any impediment or resist- 

 ance. The whole effect upon the Warp is here produced 

 by the raising of the back leaf 5, and by the sinking of 

 the back leaf 6. The effect therefore is exactly that of 

 a plain warp operated upon by two leaves ol heddles; 

 for the warp is open entirely back to the rods at 7. 

 This may in one sense be called the open shed, and in 

 another the cross ; for when viewed in a perpendicular 

 direction, as in the figure, all the warp appears open to 

 the eye, although it is really horizontally crossex be- 

 tween the leaves 5, 6", and the standards 3, 4. Thus 

 the leaves 5 and 6 produce the whole motion in this 

 figure, and the reversed and twisted motion will imme- 

 diately appear by an examination of Fig 2. Here the 

 former motion is completely inverted, and the back 

 leaves 5 and 6 have, in this instance, nothing to do but 

 to preserve the cross given by the mode of i rawing the 

 warp. They therefore remain stationary and inactive, 

 while the whole operation is performed by the mount- 

 ing in front. The cross upon the warp now becomes 

 apparent between 4 and 5, and the whole motion is 

 given by the half leaves or lams I and 2, and by the 

 standards 3 and 4. The lams and standards do not 

 now yield in opposite directions, but the lams being 

 pulled tight, the standards act merely like common 

 heddles. The lams no longer yielding to receive the 

 thread between them and the standard, the threads 

 must rise on the opposite side from what they did before, 

 and the same standards being still raised and sunk, one 

 complete twist or revolution of the warp is effected. 

 When this has been secured by the insertion of a thread 

 of woof, the warp reverting to its former state, at the 

 next operation, again twists the threads in the opposite 

 direction, and so on alternately, so long as the texture 

 continues. 



It is often considered to be useful, occasionally, to 

 intersperse plain parallel woven cioth with the linau. 

 To effect this it is merely necessary to add a third tred- 

 dle, to reverse the standards without slackening the 



Pmte 

 C( XIX. 

 P'S- 8- 





