183G.] lying north of the Tenasserim Provinces. 617 



asked me to make the request) might be allowed to accompany me to Maulamyne, 

 where he would see the facility with which business was carried on amongst us, and 

 the advantage to both countries which would arise from an unrestrained trade. He 

 said he was about to send him to Ban/co/c with the presents I had brought in the 

 course of next month. I hoped he would find it convenient to send some one else, 

 and from the great number of chiefs I there saw round the hall, I thought it could 

 easily be managed. I then took my leave, and in the evening Ponya-tche 

 called on me, expressed himself much disappointed, and begged I would not give 

 up the point. He was persuaded if I repeated the request he should be allowed to 

 accompany me, and as he is one of the most intelligent persons I have met 

 here, and the ultimate object of the Mission likely to be forwarded by his ac- 

 companying me, I promised I would do so. I asked him if there was any 

 objection to my riding through the fort, &c. &c. He told me Chow-tche-Weet 

 had desired him to tell me I was at liberty to go where I pleased in the day, 

 but that the gates of the fort were shut at night, and that it was rather expected 

 I should call on some of the lesser chiefs, his numerous relations. I proposed 

 calling to-morrow on his son-in-law, and one or two others of the chiefs who 

 met me on the road and remained here the day I arrived." 



The following' are extracts from Dr. R.'s journal during his resi- 

 dence here, which are the most likely to interest the general reader. 



" They had no idea that any European would attempt to cross the hills. I 

 •visited Chow Houa 57 * ; he is an intelligent man, about 40, of quiet and agree- 

 able manners, to whom the chief government of the province is entrusted. The 

 whole conversation was of the war with the Burmans, their hatred to whom is 

 only exceeded by their dread, and their expressions of friendship for us propor- 

 tioned to their idea of our power from having conquered the Burmese. The 

 Zimmay chief who is nephew to Chou-tche-Weet is by no means so friendly to 

 us as the others, and there is some sparring between them now, about my being 

 allowed to come here. On my return in the evening I found Chow-ni-moi-Koin 

 ut my house with two of the first chief's wives and several musicians, waiting to 

 entertain me with a natch and singing ; the music was particularly pleasing. 

 One man, a northern Shan, sang remarkably well, both as to taste and execu- 

 tion, much in the style of the Chinese, but much superior to any thing I ever 

 heard in that country. I presented a cotton handkerchief and a Madras rupee 

 to each, with which they were highly pleased. 



" 2<lth. Rode round the fort to-day, which is of an irregular form ; the 

 largest end towards the south. The east, west, and southern faces are nearly 

 of the same length (probably 15 or 1600 feet) ; the north end not more than 

 1,000. The wall is from 15 to 23 feet high outside, and from 13 to 18 inside, 

 and of the most flimsy possible structure, with four gates in the east and two 

 in the south, two on the west, and one in the north face, surrounded on three 

 sides by a wet ditch of 60 or 70 feet wide and in good repair. On the east 

 side the river flows : at this season it is not more than knee-deep ; at the gates 

 are guards of half a dozen coolies without arms. On the eastern bank of the 

 river opposite the fort are the remains of an old stockade of equal size with 

 the fort, with brick angles and bastions. The houses are more numerous with- 

 out than within the fort. On the western side is an extensive plain of rich 



* The title of the heir-apparent to the chieftainship. 

 4 L 



