1 835.] Notes of a Tour through Palestine. 445 



(Gadara), all within two or three days' march of each other, forming 

 the district called hy the Romans the Decapolis, in each place one or 

 two fine theatres, temples and great ruins, which proved how liherally 

 the Roman Praetors were allowed to disburse the public money with- 

 out sanction. Between Jorash and Amnion, we crossed the Zirkah, 

 the ancient river Jabbok, entering the country of the Amorites, still 

 hilly but destitute of wood ; and then getting into the plain of Haouran, 

 •we skirted it to Oomkais, and lake Tiberias. This plain extends as 

 far as the eye can reach, I believe even to Bagdad, and is tenanted 

 by the Bedoweens only, of whom the Annesy tribe are found reaching 

 nearly to the Gulph of Persia. There are a few villages near the 

 Jebel Haouran, to one of which, named Bosra or Bostra, where there are 

 also fine Roman ruins, we wanted to go, but could not, from want of 

 ■water, and the excessive heat ; and I was not sorry, for the plain of 

 Haouran is not inviting. The fine part of Syria ends with the Deca- 

 polis. Tiberias is more interesting than beautiful — a fine clear, blue 

 lake, about 16 miles long by eight broad, surrounded by bare rocky 

 mountains, but it is interesting from being the scene of most of our 

 Saviour's early miracles. It is always very hot. here, as it is in the 

 valley of the Jordan. The most remarkable feature about it is Mount 

 Hermon, covered with eternal snow, rising over its (the lake's) north- 

 ern side. It is the most remarkable mountain in Palestine, visible from 

 almost every part, even from near Jaffa. Returning to Nazareth by 

 Cana, I found my fellow-traveller quite recovered ; but alarming reports 

 being now prevalent of an insurrection having broken out against the 

 Egyptian government, we deferred our plan of proceeding straight 

 to Damascus, and turning westward to the sea coast we made the 

 best of our way by Mount Carmel, Acre, Tyre, Sidon, to Bieroot. 

 Here ascertaining that the commotion had not yet extended to Da- 

 mascus, we crossed Lebanon and got there, visiting the Ameer Basheer 

 in our way. The latter part of the road to Damascus was extremely 

 dry and barren, the weather too was extremely hot. We therefore 

 felt the full beauty of the situation of this city, for which it is chiefly 

 remarkable, in the plain of the Haouran, watered by the river Banady, 

 which irrigates innumerable gardens and orchards, and imparts an ap- 

 pearance of the richest verdure and fertility to the whole. The Da- 

 mascenes have been obliged to relinquish their bigotted hostility 

 towards the Franks since the rule of Muhammad Ali, and Christians 

 may now ride into the gate, wear the white turban, and enjoy all the 

 other privileges of Muhammadan subjects ; nay, several of the chief 

 persons showed us the interior of their houses, and one Abdullah Bko, 

 son of Assad Pasha, who has the most magnificent establishment in the 

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