606 Journal of a Tour through [Nov. 



a wild ferociousness of air, which is highly characteristic of their 

 wandering life. This interesting group would have been a fine study 

 of costume for Hayter's accurate pencil. Two of this party joined 

 us, and in a mixed dialect of Persian and Arabic, asked me if I was 

 not going to Sulimaniah ; for, said they, "we are anxious to visit that 

 city, to pay our respects to Su'liman Pasha, and if possible, to 

 obtain his head for a foot-ball." Not liking the appearance of these 

 cavaliers, I was determined to try at an escape by a ruse de guerre ; 

 so exclaimed, with a feigned astonishment, '* Sulimauiah ! then, I 

 have been misdirected, I am bound for Hamadan, and find I am 

 wandering from my way I" This had a proper effect ; for they faced 

 about, and joined their companions. We rode for nine farsangs 

 through a country remarkably well cultivated. The valley we had 

 entered presented an inclined surface to the west, from ten to fifteen 

 miles broad, including the skirts of the hills on either side, little 

 interrupted with irregularities, and all capable of the richest culture, 

 though a great portion lay waste ; but the villages were so thinly 

 scattered over it, that it was surprising to see the extent cultivated. 

 The whole soil of the valley was of a fine light-coloured clayey loam ; 

 its surface being slightly diversified by hillocks, chiefly artificial, the 

 sites of old villages. A stream of no great natural size, but at this 

 time swelled by the dissolving snows, glided through it, and the hills 

 undulated and retreated into small plains, which were luxuriantly 

 cultivated. I was told that these glens produced wonderful crops, 

 with the aid of a little artificial irrigation. The main valley appeared 

 less productive, but sufficiently so to prove the existence of great 

 fertility of soil, and human industry. Few parts of Persia could equal 

 it. As the inhabitants of the villages are both shepherds and 

 cultivators, they were at this time ploughing the land. During 

 summer they descend to reap the harvest, and leave their wives and 

 children in care of their meadows, and the flocks that graze upon 

 them. 



Continuing our route, we passed through an irregular and winding 

 ascent, which brought us to the village of Bogam, situated on the 

 bank of a small rill, which ran into the river Jakuntu. Nothing 

 could exceed the appearance of poverty which prevailed throughout 

 the place, or the want of comfort and security. This is doubtless 

 to prevent the excitement of any cupidity ; for even this appearance 

 of squalid misery does not protect the inhabitants from oppression ; 

 nor in this neighbourhood are they ever free from the incursions of 

 the Persians. It was only the other day, that Jafar Ku'li Khan, 

 the governor of Marangha, was ordered by Prince Abbas Mirza to 



