1835.] Georgia, Persia, and Mesopotamia. 607 



render this part of Kurdistan a desert, and to destroy by fire and 

 the sword all the hamlets and their inmates that might cross his 

 track. The Prince's order ran thus : " hang the men upon the trees, 

 and tear them asunder ; rip up the women, and tread over them." 

 Upon his approach, the inhabitants flew to the adjacent mountain 

 gorges, and over summits which, as the Persian poet observes, " were 

 never trod by human foot, and scarcely ever by the wild birds of 

 heaven." The order was obeyed in regard to this village, which is 

 now little better than a heap of ashes. Two short years have only 

 passed since I was here on my homeward route, and then Bogam 

 was a flourishing little town. 



Not being able to procure forage for our cattle, or even refresh- 

 ment for ourselves, we departed hence before the dawn of day. 

 Mirady, the object of our march, lay at a distance of thirty-five miles, 

 and the road appeared unusually rugged. About noon we reached 

 a lovely plain surrounded by mountains. Spring had already strewed 

 the ground with her richest bloom ; and the brightness of the sky, 

 together with the picturesque appearance of the country, filled the 

 mind with delightful ideas. A serpentine stream meandered through 

 this delicious spot, and the most beautiful lawns diversified the scene. 

 At length we came in sight of the village, and were soon received by 

 its chief, who ordered his women to give us the best room in his 

 cottage. They busied themselves with great humour in clearing 

 away their domestic utensils, and lighted a bright fire for the evening. 

 These women were fair and handsome ; they had black eyes, and 

 long dark hair ; low in stature, with delicate features. The children 

 of both sexes had fine ruddy complexions, though of course they 

 soon contract a tawny hue. The women of this district appeared 

 very industrious, and always were seen assisting in the toils of 

 agriculture ; and on no occasion did they conceal their faces, but 

 went about entirely unveiled ; though it was considered a mark of 

 impoliteness to stare at them, nevertheless, they appeared highly 

 gratified at exciting our attention, and we clearly perceived that 

 vanity was the characteristic of the sex in this, as well as other, 

 countries. 



After being served with delicious cheese made from the milk of 

 sheep, and some excellent flat cakes of bread, the chief of the village 

 invited me to his home. On entering the house, I saw three or 

 more men seated in a corner of one of the rooms, with some rude- 

 looking instruments resting on their laps. One resembled our 

 flageolet ; another, the guitar ; and a third, the kettle-drum. A signal 

 being made, one of the men advanced, and seating himself in the 

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