1835.] Georgia, Persia, and Mesopotamia. 609 



temptation to do otherwise ; and from his knowledge of the road, 

 greatly shortened our distance. During the march, we frequently 

 passed parties of ill-looking fellows, who were travelling to the town 

 of Ouroomia, and whose inquiries about us, as they greeted our guide, 

 excited something more than my curiosity. I therefore asked him, 

 if those people would have lightened our cattle of their loads, had we 

 been less prepared ? " Of course," he replied, " and we of our village 

 would do the same — we none of us scruple, when fair opportunities 

 occur." This avowal, uttered with the greatest sangfroid, evinced a re- 

 solute principle of rascality ; but as we afforded no " fair opportunities," 

 we got on famously together, till the necessity of our acquaintance 

 ceased. We passed an extensive encampment of Eliats under some 

 overhanging rocks : their wild appearance, mingled with horses, 

 asses, oxen, and sheep, were admirably characteristic of the place, 

 as they met the eye, gathered together in groups around a fire, which 

 emitted its thin spire of smoke. Had we known of their vicinity, 

 we should certainly have endeavoured to pass by a circuitous path ; 

 and had they been apprised of us, our property would not perhaps 

 have remained unmolested. They were very inquisitive, demanded 

 whither we were travelling, talked both loud and long, and endea- 

 voured to persuade us to remain for the night under the protection 

 of their tents. The scenery around us became so singularly wild, 

 that I regretted the approach of night. Our progress was often 

 much impeded by the thickness of the wood ; but on descending 

 towards a small village, which appeared in a retired nook of the 

 opposite hills, the cliffs grew more majestic, the precipices more lofty, 

 and the forest more beautiful. On reaching the enclosure of the 

 village, we were forced to remain a long time in waiting, before any 

 shelter could be found for us ; and after all, to take possession of a 

 hut, hastily emptied for the occasion, full of dirt and vermin. Every 

 thing was in confusion, and our foolish Muhammedan, instead of 

 exerting himself, stood like a drunkard biting his whip, without ever 

 offering the slightest assistance. Our evening meal was late and 

 cold, and we retired to rest as little pleased with ourselves, as with 

 our attendants. Next morning the inhabitants came in a body to 

 assure us, that it would be impossible to cross the mountains without 

 lightening the mules ; and that even then, the passage would be 

 extremely difficult. I thought this a mere pretext to obtain some 

 money, so refused to employ them in any manner. However, they 

 knew the state of the road better, and following the muleteers, soon 

 convinced us that their services were indispensable. The morning 

 was excessively cold, and as we approached the mountains we had 



