610 Journal of a Tour through [Nov. 



to ascend, the cattle woand through a sort of rut, or channel, worn 

 in the solid rock, where the width barely allowed us to pass without 

 touching its sides, so that we were frequently obliged to hold up 

 both feet in a horizontal direction, level with the animal's back, to 

 prevent their being bruised between its sides and the rock, which 

 could not be avoided by any other mode. On reaching the base of 

 the mountain, we found that it was extremely precipitous, and con- 

 sequently were obliged to indent upon the villagers, who triumph- 

 antly came forward, and assisted in supporting our cattle. The 

 ascent, which was circuitous and abrupt, occupied the space of four 

 hours, and proved so distressing to the mules, that they were forced 

 to be relieved of their loads. This appeared to assist them very 

 immaterially, as huge masses of snow lay in ravines in every direction, 

 and they sunk to the girths at each step, when, in endeavouring to 

 rise, two of them rolled down the precipice with their loads, which 

 consisted of dead bodies en route for Kerbala. On nearing the 

 summit, the road was so terribly furrowed by the dissolving snows, 

 that its ascent became nearly impracticable. The difficulty of this 

 passage was heightened by the conduct of a body of Kurds, who 

 from the top had been watching our approach, and now commenced 

 hurling large stones upon those bearing our baggage. My muleteer, 

 who had been quaking for the safety of his mules, became much 

 alarmed. " Stakhferallah !" he exclaimed, " there's enough of them, 

 to be sure !" " Never fear, I replied ; by the help of Allah, and the 

 Prophet, we may check their fury." " Had we only a dozen brave 

 Kazilbashes, with their matchlocks and swords, you might then talk 

 so ; but now," said the old monkey-faced muleteer, " I fear I shall 

 become a beggar; nevertheless, Allah-hu Akbar !" By this time our 

 trunks had been thrown down in the snow, and the fray commenced 

 with huge crooked sticks, sabres, and matchlocks, mounted with 

 prongs, resembling a hay-maker's pitch-fork. The enemy soon lost 

 the support of four of their party, who were conveyed away wounded, 

 and the majority of the rest in all probability would have willingly 

 given up a contest in which so little was to be gained. But there 

 were among them some of a determined spirit, who urged on the 

 rest to revenge their wounded companions, and exerted themselves 

 successfully to inspire them with confidence. My pistols being loaded, 

 I went amongst them, and threatened to shoot the leader, when they 

 cried out with surprise, " They have guns." This appeared to 

 cool their rage and determination, and on their retreating to the 

 edge of the mountain, we succeeded on rolling them over its side, 

 while the snow shelved down upon their heads, and nearly buried 



