1835.] Georgia, Persia, and Mesopotamia. 611 



them. The Memandar, who had hitherto remained an inactive 

 spectator of the scene, approached me, howing respectfully, and said, 

 " Barik-allah ! Mash-allah ! may your shadow never he less; may 

 your servant find grace in your eyes !" but instead of noticing his 

 nauseous expressions, I ordered him to return to his country, as his 

 services were dispensed with. The success of this debut gave anima- 

 tion to the old muleteer and his assistants, who exclaimed, " Pundh- 

 be Khodah," and recited a passage from the Qoran, in which the 

 words " La Allah il Allah, Muharamed Rasul il Allah," were very 

 frequently repeated. 



After a most laborious descent from the mountain, we traversed 

 its base in a southerly direction, passing on our way a ruined cara- 

 vansary, from whence the Kurds had issued ; thereby converting into 

 a place of molestation to the traveller, what had been erected for his 

 accommodation. This mountain terminated in a sharp point ; after 

 rounding which, we entered upon well cultivated land, extending to 

 the village of Bannah. Two miles to the northward of this place, 

 we crossed a considerable stream of water, and near its bank several 

 extensive burying places were situated. These places of sepulture 

 were at a considerable distance from any town, and the graves were 

 all distinct and separate, each having a rough block of stone placed 

 upright, both at the head and feet ; while the intermediate space, 

 instead of having a slab placed horizontally, was either planted with 

 flowers or covered with broken pieces of tile. Some few graves had 

 circular rooms, with cupolas built over them, which being kept white- 

 washed and ornamented, exhibited an excellent comment on the 

 expression of our Saviour, when he compares hypocrites to " white 

 washed sepulchres, which appear outwardly beautiful, but within 

 are full of dead men's bones and all uncleanness." The funerals of 

 the Kurds have a reference to those of the Hebrews. How earnestly 

 does the patriarch Jacob enjoin his sons to bury him in Canaan, in 

 the family sepulchre ; and Joseph, in like manner, exacts an oath from 

 his people, to carry his bones with them when they leave Egypt. If 

 a Kurd dies at a distance from his native village, the inhabitants are 

 bound to remove the corpse, and inter it with decency. I have often 

 met a party escorting one who was never more to smile or weep in 

 this mortal world, and on conversing with them, they dwelt upon 

 the disgrace and ill-luck which would be attached to him who neglect- 

 ed to bury a body in its " proper place of rest." We observed 

 graves decorated with garlands as among the Welsh, which are 

 removed at the end of the mourning. We reached Bannah at night- 

 fall, nearly exhausted by fatigue and hunger, and assembled round a 



