618 Journal of a Tour through [Nov. 



Being the bearer of a letter for the Pasha, he assigned me a house 

 in the best part of the city, and I found the people both civil and 

 obliging. They pretend to pique themselves upon hospitality, but 

 how its duties are discharged, will depend entirely on circumstances. 

 For instance, in the year 1828, habited as a Turk, I travelled through 

 Kurdistan in company with a man who pretended to be a lineal 

 descendant of the prophets ; and we journeyed a distance of six 

 hundred miles, halting at this city on the way, without spending the 

 sum of ten Persian rials. The Seyad afterwards assured me, that he 

 was offered a wife at every village through which we passed ; but, 

 added he, " as I was your Mehmandar, I could not act with such 

 indecorum." However, he actually had a wife of his own, at every 

 town of note between Bagdad and Tabriz. This man's name is 

 Ishmael ; he has often served English travellers, and has always 

 given infinite satisfaction. At the time I am now writing, I have 

 not disguised myself, but am in the costume of my own country ; 

 the consequence is, I find travelling here more expensive than in 

 Persia. Nevertheless, I would advise all travellers who care not for 

 the expence, and have plenty of spare time, to pass hence in their 

 own dress ; for their persons are respected, and in security : whereas, 

 by adopting a foreign garb (although better opportunities are afforded 

 of observing the people and country), a traveller might be murdered 

 for the value of a decent pair of shulwars (breeches). My own life 

 was attempted more than once at the time I have just referred to, 

 but, now I feel as secure as if I were passing through Regent Street. 



Amongst those tribes whose morals have been vitiated by habits of 

 rapine, it is unsafe to trust to the strongest professions. For there 

 can be no doubt that cruelty and avarice characterize this people, 

 though they by no means hoard their money ; always preferring to 

 convert it into horses, mares, lances, pistols, swords, and ornaments 

 for their women. Cash is not very current amongst them, purchases 

 being made by barter. In all my travels I never could procure change 

 for a sum equivalent to a rupee. 



The females are not shut up in this or any other Kurdish town ; 

 nor are they veiled, like those of most Muhammedan countries. On 

 entering the house of a Kurd, you are not annoyed by women rush- 

 ing in every direction to escape notice. During my stay amongst 

 them, I constantly met women in company with men, without veils. 

 It is true they are not permitted to eat with the men, but in every 

 other respect they are entirely free. As far as my own observation 

 extended, they were not possessed of those personal charms which 

 might impose the necessity of restraint, though a few of them, if 





