1865.] Description of a Mystic Play. 71 



Description of a Mystic Play, as performed in LadaJc, Zasltar, &c. — 

 By Captain H. H. Godwin- Austen, Surveyor, Topographical 

 Survey, F. B. G. S. 



[Received 21st October, 1864]. [Read 2nd November, 1864]. 



These Mystic Plays of which I am about to give an account, are 

 performed on certain feast clays in all the principal monasteries of 

 Ladak, about twice in the year, in spring and autumn. They are also, 

 I have been informed, enacted at Lhassa and Bhootan, but I did not 

 see one when in the latter country. I can give no information as to 

 their origin, and must here state that not being a Tibetan scholar, I 

 cannot vouch for the true orthography of proper names written down 

 at the time viva voce, and which are very difficult to catch. The Play 

 hereafter described, I saw performed in the fine old Gonpa or Monastery 

 of Himis, which is situated in a lateral ravine that joins the river 

 Indus a day's journey above Leh on the left bank of that river. From 

 its secluded position, this was one of the few religious houses that 

 escaped destruction on the invasion of the country by the Dogra army 

 under Wazier Jerawur. At that time much curious and interesting 

 property and valuable religious writings were ruthlessly destroyed. 

 The theatrical property, consisting of silk dresses, masks, &c, are 

 therefore seen in greater perfection at Himis than at any other mon- 

 astery in the country. On entering the court-yard on the day of 

 performance, we found the head Lhama with all the gylongs (monks) 

 of the establishment were assembled, the musical instruments were 

 arranged ready under the little verandah to the proper right of the 

 large Prayer Cylinder which stands under the centre of it, and every 

 thing betokened the coming scene. 



Before commencing an account of the strange performance, it will 

 be as well to roughly describe that portion of the building where it is 

 enacted. The principal entrance to the monastery is through a mas- 

 sive door, from which runs a gently sloping and paved covered way 

 leading into a court-yard about 30 X 40 yards square, having on the 

 left hand a narrow verandah, in the centre of which stands the large 

 Prayer Cylinder above mentioned. The larger picturesque doorway 



