146 WATER PLANTS. 



swollen root-stocks, while the hardy species, with one or two exceptions, 

 have thick, fleshy rhizomes. 



Among the hardy sorts N. odorata is the one most commonly grown 

 (or its flowers. A form of this is known as the Cape Cod Water Lily; N. 

 odorata rosea has bright rose-colored flowers; N. o. sulphurea, N. 

 Marliacea chromatella and N. tuberosa flavescens have yellow flowers; 

 N. Marliacea albida and N. alba are pure white. A new hybrid race of 

 which N. Laydekeri rosea is the best known, has several named kinds 

 ■with rather odd colors, but they are less desirable than some of the bet- 

 ter known varieties. They are, however, well suited for growing in 

 tubs half filled with soil, and the remaining space with water. 



Soil — All of the species and varieties will thrive in loam two parts 

 and one part half-rotted cow manure. Another good medium is formed 

 by adding a 5-inch potful of bone meal to a bushel of loam. 



Starting Tubers Into Growth — The tubers of the tender Nymphseas 

 should be started not later than the beginning of April. Each tuber 

 should be put in a 5-inch pot, using pure loam. The tuber may be 

 covered with about an inch of soil and a further layer of half an inch 

 of sand, and put in a tank of water at a temperature of from 65 to 70 

 degrees. After a few leaves have been made the growth should be sepa- 

 rated from the tuber and repotted, as this prevents numerous shoots 

 developing when planted out and secures a strong single growth. This 

 appUes to all of the tender sorts. Thetubers may be pushed back in the 

 5-inch pots, where they will continue sending up fresh shoots; these, or 

 as many as wanted, may be potted in 4-inch pots and allowed to go to 

 rest in them. Tubers thus formed should be kept (or stock purposes, 

 Instead of old plants. 



Summer Quarters— In this latitude it is safe to put out the tenderest 

 kinds after the 10th of May. Each plant, whether grown In sunken 

 tubs, boxes, or planted in the bottom of the pond, should have at least 

 three bushels of prepared soil to grow them well. One foot beneath the 

 surface is a safe distance; but they will thrive much deeper. 



Starting Hardy Nymphaeas— By the beginning of April any of the 

 hardy Nymphaeas, which it is necessary to increase or replant, should 

 get attention before they make too much headway. In dividing up such 

 kinds as N. helvola and the pink varieties of N. odorata with small rhi- 

 zomes, such as N. odorata rosea and N. o. exquisita, or the small pieces 

 of N. Marliacea chromatella, it is safest to start the pieces In pots so 

 that they will make a few leaves before being transferred to their perma- 

 nent quarters. Such kinds as N. alba, N. a. candidissima, X. Marliacea 

 albida, N. M. rosea, N. M. carnea have very large rhizomes, and there is 

 little danger but that they will give a good account of themselves after 

 being divided and planted out. 



Wintering Tender Water Lilies— From the 15th to the end of October 

 the tender Water Lilies should be taken Indoors for the Winter. Where 

 there are small plants or tubers of the tender day blooming species and 

 varieties, such as N. zanzibarensis, its varieties as azurea and rosea, 

 the Australian N. gigantea, N. coerulea and N. scutifolia, let the old ones 



