298 GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



ent Blzes of crocks on hand all the time. The crocks should consist of 

 three sizes, the largest size in pieces from two to three Inches across; 

 the next large enough to go through a No. 1 sieve, and the small size 

 from one-quarter to one-haU-lnch In diameter. The quickest way to 

 procure the different sizes is to breakup the potsherds with a good-sized 

 hammer, so that the largest pieces are from two to three inches across; 

 put into a No. 4 or 6 sieve to screen out the dust and smaller particles, 

 which may be thrown away. Next screen through a half-inch sieve and 

 these will serve as the smallest-sized crocks. The pieces which the half- 

 inch sieve retain put into an Inch sieve. This will give the second size, 

 and what is left will answer for pieces to put over the boles in the bo1> 

 toms of the pots. All three sizes should be kept in separate boxes, or 

 divisions on the potting bench, handy for use. In crocking, spread out 

 a number of pots on the bench, take a piece of broken pot about twice 

 the diameter of the hole in the bottom of the pot, place the concave side 

 of the crock directly over the hole. If the pot is a small one, a few of 

 the smaller-sized crocks over the larger pieces will be suflBcient; but if a 

 6-inch pot, or larger, it Is best to arrange a few large pieces around the 

 first piece, finishing off with smaller ones. On top of the crocks, to pre- 

 vent the soil from getting among them, either during the operation of 

 potting or from being washed down afterward, sphagnum moss is often 

 used, although this is not the best material for the purpose, as it is apt 

 to retain moisture to a greater extent than the soil above it. Half 

 decomposed leaves are preferable. 



SOIL. 



Loam is the principal soil used for most plants. If containing 

 much clay it is made lighter and more porous by adding peat, leaf 

 mould and sand. Each grower of plants should have the loam he uses 

 analyzed by a professional analyst, in order to be certain of what it 

 contains, and to apply intelligently the constituents in which it is defi- 

 cient for the different classes of plants. Two excellent books on this 

 subject are: "The Soil," by Professor King, Wisconsin, and " Lectures 

 on Some of the Physical Properties of Soil," by Professor R. Warington. 



MULCHING. 



This coneistB of covering the surface of the soil with any loose 

 material, such as well-rotted manure, cocoanut fiber, stable litter, 

 or half-decayed leaves. It acts in retaining the moisture in the gyound 

 for the benefit of vegetation instead of being lost by rapid evaporation. 

 The soil, especially after heavy rainstorms, gets a firm crust on the sur- 

 face which ultimately cracks open, readily parting with the moisture 

 to a good distance beneath the surface; thus the mulch acts as a layer 

 between the drying influence of the atmosphere and the surface of the 

 soil, preventing it from getting hard and keeping it open. A good mulch, 

 besides preventing evaporation is, to a certain extent, similar in its 

 action to a loose, silty surface soil, drawing up the moisture from several 

 feet below the surface. Mulching is also beneficial, because if manure is 



