DESERT JOURNEYS. 319 



tent and enters with the dignity of a king. He is the chief of the 

 camel-drivers (Sheikh el Djemali), to whom we, the travellers, had 

 sent a messenger, asking him to provide us with the necessary 

 guides, drivers, and camels. 



" Peace be with you," he says on entering, and lays his hand on 

 his mouth, his forehead, and his heart. 



" Peace be with thee, O Sheikh," we answer, " the mercy of God 

 and his blessing." 



" Great has been my desire to see you, ye strangers, and to learn 

 your wishes," he assures us, as he takes his seat on a cushion in the 

 place of honour at our right hand. 



" May God, the Almighty, reward thy goodness, Sheikh, and 

 bless thee,'' we answer; and we order our servants to bring him 

 coffee and a freshly lit pipe before serving ourselves. 



With half -shut eyes he comforts his mortal body with the coffee 

 and his immortal soul with the pipe; and thick clouds of smoke 

 veil his expressive features. There is almost perfect stillness in the 

 tent, which is pervaded with the fragrance of the exquisite Djebelit 

 tobacco and a thin smoke by no means unpleasant. At last we think 

 that we may venture to begin business without violating any of the 

 rites of hospitality. 



"Is it well with thee, Sheikh?" 



" The Giver of all Good be praised, it is well with your servant. 

 And how is it with thee?" 



" To the Lord of all be honour and glory, it is well with me. 

 Great was our longing to see thee, Sheikh." 



" May God in His compassion fulfil your desire and bless you. 

 Are ye in your state of health well content?" 



■' Glory be to Allah and to His Prophet, on whom is His grace.' 



" Amen, be it as thou hast said." 



Fresh pipes revive the immortal soul; renewed, almost inter- 

 minable courtesies are interchanged; and at last the rigid con- 

 ditions of etiquette have been fulfilled, and it is permissible to turn 

 to business matters. 



"0 Sheikh, with the help of the All-merciful, I would travel 

 through this stretch of desert." 



