320 FROM NORTH POLE TO EQUATOR. 



" May Allah give thee good speed." 



"Art thou in possession of camels both to run and to carry 

 burdens?" we ask. 



"I am. Is it well with thee, my brother?" 



" The Almighty be praised, it is well. How many camels canst 

 thou provide for me?" 



Instead of an answer only countless clouds of smoke issue from 

 the Sheikh's mouth, and it is not until we repeat our question that 

 he lays aside his pipe for some moments and says with dignity, 

 " Sir, the number of the camels of Beni Said is known to Allah 

 alone; no son of Adam has ever counted them." 



" Well, then, send me twenty-five beasts, and among them six 

 trotters. And I have besides need of ten large water-bags." 



The Sheikh smokes afresh without giving answer. 



" Wilt thou send the beasts we desire?" we repeat with emphasis. 



"I shall do so to serve thee," he answers, "but their owners 

 require a high price." 



" How much?" 



"At least four times the customary wages and hire will be 

 necessary." 



"But Sheikh, Allah, the Most High, preserve thee: these are 

 demands which no one will be willing to grant. Praise the Prophet!" 



"God, the Preserver of all, be glorified and His messengers 

 blessed! Thou art in error, my friend: the merchant who has his 

 camp over there has offered me double what I ask ; only my friend- 

 ship for thee has allowed me to make so small a demand." 



In vain seems all haggling, all further business. Fresh pipes 

 are brought and are smoked; renewed courtesies are exchanged; 

 the names of Allah and His Prophet are freely misused on both 

 sides ; most precise inquiries after health and comfort are made 

 mutually; until at length the studied courtesy of the native begins 

 to waver and the traveller from the North loses patience. 



" Then know, Sheikh, that I am in possession of a letter author- 

 izing a demand for means of convoy from the Khedive and likewise 

 one from the Sheikh Soliman; here are both of them, what dost 

 thou demand now?" 



