A JOURNEY IN SIBERIA. 397 



Semipalatinsk, along the highway which runs along the right bank 

 of the Irtish, connecting the villages of the so-called Cossack line. 

 Already, in passing from Yalutoroffsk to Omsk, we had journeyed 

 through a steppe — that of Ishim; now the steppe surrounded us 

 on all sides, and almost every night the heavens were red with the 

 flames of last year's grass and herbage, which was now being burnt. 

 Troops of migrating birds followed the river directly behind the ice 

 as it drifted northwards; crowds of aquatic birds peopled all the 

 steppe streams and lakes; various species of lark flew hither and 

 thither in flocks; the dainty falcons of the steppe had already betaken 

 themselves to their summer quarters; the spring had indeed come. 



In Semipalatinsk we had the good fortune to find in the governor. 

 General von Poltoratski, a warm friend, ready to aid us in all our 

 endeavours, and in his lady the most amiable of hostesses. Not 

 content with having secured our hospitable reception, the general 

 most kindly proposed to make us acquainted with the Kirghiz, who 

 form a great part of the population of his district, and to this end 

 organized a great hunting expedition after archars, the wild sheep 

 of Siberia, which are almost twice the size of our domestic animals.^" 



On the 3rd of May we started on the chase, crossing the Irtish 

 and following the post-road to Taschkent, in the Kirghiz steppe. 

 After a journey of sixteen hours we reached the region of the chase 

 — a rocky part of the steppe, and soon we were standing before the 

 aid or ^/wri-camp which had been prepared for us. There we were 

 welcomed by the general's wife, who had gone on ahead of us the 

 day before, and cordially also by about a score of Kirghiz sultans 

 and district governors, and their numerous followers. 



During the next three days there was great sport on the Arkat 

 mountains. It was holiday with the Kirghiz, who are always eager 

 for fun, and it was not less so for us. Hill and valley resounded 

 with the hoofs of fourscore or more horsemen, who took part in the 

 two-days' hunt; the sun, when he was pleased to show himself, 

 shone down on strange, gay garments which had been hitherto 

 hidden under furs; there was a merry bustle over hill and dale. 

 The Kirghiz, once so much dreaded, whose very name means robber, 

 are now the most faithful and contented Russian subjects, and there 



