84 Salmon at the Antipodes. 



there had been a loud resounding rapid before, 

 now was a swift, deep stream, running like oil. 

 This sudden spate was caused, of course, by 

 our friend, the black storm, on the hills. In 

 this part of Northumberland spates come on 

 very quickly, owing to the mountains being 

 so steep, and the moors being so much more 

 drained than they were in former years. With 

 the spate in the river came the storm upon us 

 — a regular spiteful gentleman, fresh from the 

 caves of iEolus — iced rain, sleet, and snow. 

 I was cold — very cold — but I would not let it 

 be seen. I felt my wet suit of waterproof 

 gradually freezing, and becoming like a suit 

 of armour, especially about the arms and 

 throat ; so we packed up, and walked away 

 as fast as we could under a railway arch, 

 where I managed, with the help of a water 

 bailiff, to get off the same frozen dress ; and 

 then for a walk — I hate walking — into Belling- 

 ham. As we went along, a blacker cloud 

 came over, and it began to snow ; not in nice 

 heavy flakes, but little sharp spikes, the size 

 of peppercorns. The howling wind drove these 

 along like shot from a volley of infantry. 

 " At last we arrived at Bellingham, and on 



