52 California Poultry Practice 



pieces three feet long for the ends. Nail these together, ends in 

 bottom. For back and front use tongue and groove lumber, 

 as it stands weather better. To put in your back, fit the 

 first board inside of the ends, letting it come on bottom in center 

 of hopper, putting the rest of back boards even with the outside. Put 

 the rest of boards on outside. This lets your feed come out in front. 

 Now put a four-inch strip across front at bottom. This prevents hens 

 throwing out the grain. The cover should reach out at least one foot 

 so as to protect the feed and the hens while eating, and should be 

 made of water-proof material. 



A Good Beef Scrap Hopper 



This hopper can be made on the same plan as the other, only 

 smaller and make the throat 1^ inches instead of one inch, because 

 beef scrap does not feed as easily as grain or dry mash. You can 

 also make a three department hopper of this by giving it a two-inch 

 throat. This will feed oyster shell, beef scrap and grit. 



Another Home-Made Hopper 



This is suitable for indoors or in dry weather outdoors and it 

 costs nothing. Get a box at the grocery store, say fifteen inches long, 

 five inches wide and 10 to 12 inches high. Now board this box up 

 tight, only leaving a 3-inch opening across the entire front of the box 

 near the top. Fill the box with beef scrap and hang it up by a nail 

 and the hens can eat it empty and no bother about clogging or other 

 fuss. 



The two hoppers mentioned above will need a cover that reaches 

 at least 8 to 10 inches over the front where the chickens feed. As 

 the hopper only feeds from one side the cover should hinge at the 

 back and the hopper set against the wall. The cover being made of 

 tongue and groove boards, similar to the back and front, will protect 

 the feed in rain storms and also the hens while eating, if brought out 

 wide enough. Beef scrap, too, must be covered, hence the hopper 

 will need one unless put indoors. 



