94 EDIBLE MUSHROOMS 



The stem is less solid than in Campestris, often with 

 a pithlike or even hollow heart. The gills are of 

 unequal length, as in the former species, though of 

 much the same tints of pink and brown and black, 

 though more dingy in the lighter shades. The veil 

 is often more conspicuous, and occasionally appears 

 to be double, the outer or lower more or less ragged 

 or split into a fringe at the edge. The species can 

 hardly be mistaken for any poisonous variety, and, 

 once recognized, its generous size, frequent profusion, 

 and savory qualities make it a tempting quest to the 

 epicure, being considered by many as superior in fla- 

 vor to its rival, the smaller Campestris. 



But this question of gastronomic prestige will per- 

 haps never be finally settled. De gustibus non est 

 disputandum. Species considered here 



In matters by many as the ne plus ultra of delica- 

 of taste cies, like the Campestris, are discrimi- 

 nated against in other countries, and in 

 Rome, it is said, are even thrown into the Tiber by 

 inspectors and guardians of the public health who 

 find it exposed for sale in the markets. There are 

 those connoisseurs in delicate feasting who consider 

 no other species comparable to this. These fastidi- 

 ous gourmands are in turn viewed with pitying con- 

 sideration by other superior epicurean feeders with 

 finer sensuous discrimination, who know perfectly 

 well that our woods afford a number of common 

 species which easily consign the Campestris to the 

 fourth or fifth choice as a competitor at the feast. 



The arts of the chef have been exhausted in the 

 savory preparation of this, the most famous of the 



