148 EDIBLE MUSHROOMS 



are easily judged by the height of the gun leaning 

 against the tree, and introduced for comparison. 

 /^This "Oyster Mushroom" should be gathered in 

 its young state, and may be served in various ways. 

 Broiling over the coals, gills upward. 

 Broiled seasoning with butter, pepper, and salt 

 recipe during the cooking, is a favorite meth- 

 od wkir^nost-ef-tbe-Agancs, but a well- 

 known fungus epicure claims that this mushroom 

 " may be cooked in any way that an oyster is, and 

 will be found fine eating// 



The average specimen will probably prove more 

 ashen in hue than those represented in my plate. 



THE ELM MUSHROOM 



Agaricus ulmarius 



This edible species of mushroom, allied to the 



foregoing, and which grows in similar clusters on the 



elm-tree, is the Agaricus ulmarius (Plate 



Appetizing 1 5). While much difference of opinion 

 qualities prevails regarding the appetizing qual- 

 ities of this mushroom or its right to 

 a place among the esculents, this varying individual 

 judgment has doubtless often had direct reference 

 to the character of the particular specimen chosen 

 for trial. Dr. M. C. Cooke is not disposed to place a 

 high appreciation upon its qualities. " It has been 

 customary," he says, " to regard this and some of its 

 allies [presumably in allusion to the preceding] as 

 alimentary, but there is no doubt that they could all 

 be very well spared from the list." Opposed to this 

 uncomplimentary aspersion is the testimony of other 



