214 EDIBLE MUSHROOMS 



Though not common in my vicinity, I neverthe- 

 less succeed in obtaining a few specimens during 

 the season. It varies greatly in size and shape. 

 M. C. Cooke, in his admirable "plain and easy" 

 account of British fungi, says of it : " When old it 

 affords an excellent gravy, and when 

 Savory young, if sliced and grilled, would pass 

 qualities for a good beefsteak. Specimens are 

 now and then met with that would fur- 

 nish four or five men with a good dinner, and they 

 have been collected weighing as much as thirty 

 pounds. The liver, or paler pinkish meaty color, 

 clammy viscidity, and streaky section are sufficient 

 guides in the recognition of this species." 



It is a highly prized article of diet on the Continent 

 where the arts of the chef are ingeniously employed 

 in endless recipes for its savory prep- 

 Culinary aration, often, it would seem, with the 

 preparation main object of obliterating as far as 

 possible all trace of the delicate flavor 

 of the mushroom per se. 



If the reader's experience correspond with the 

 writer's in his mycological experiments " a la mode" 

 he will gladly fall back to the plain plebeian method 

 of simply broiling over the coals, or frying or roast- 

 ing in the pan, with the least possible seasoning of 

 pepper, salt, and butter, relying upon his mushroom 

 to furnish the predominant zest and flavor. 



Other hints for serving this fungus are given in a 

 later chapter. Besides the common name of " beef- 

 steak mushroom," it is also known on the Continent 

 as the " oak tongue," and " chestnut tongue." 



