RECIPES 3 I 5 



more than any other fungus. The gravy, in quality 

 and color, would certainly deceive a most discrimi- 

 nating palate. Like many of the Polyporei, it is com- 

 paratively slow in maturing, occasionally, it is said, 

 requiring two weeks ere it reaches its prime, when it 

 may acquire a large size. 



It should be gathered before its maturity to insure 

 tenderness, though the older, tougher individuals, cut 

 in pieces and cooked separately, will yield a quantity 

 of rich red gravy, to be added to the dish of more 

 tender specimens. " If it is not beef itself," says Mrs. 

 Hussey, " it is sauce for it." " If sliced and grilled it 

 would pass for a good beefsteak," says Cooke, with 

 truth. Mrs. Hussey recommends that it should be 

 sliced and macerated in salt, the deep- red liquor 

 which exudes should be put hot into a dish with a 

 little lemon-juice and minced shallots, and a broiled 

 steak deposited in it. It may also be variously 

 stewed or fricasseed with excellent results, and af- 

 fords a delicious soup with savor closely suggesting 

 beef broth or consomme clair. A "beef -steak" pie 

 made on the foregoing recipe prescribed for the 

 Procerus would doubtless prove a most appetizing 



entree. 



23 The Oyster Mushroom 



" It may be cooked in any way that an oyster is, 

 and is equally good in all," says a distinguished con- 

 noisseur in soups, stewed, broiled, curried, baked, 



in the form of an escalop, patties, or vol-au-vent, or 

 fried with butter in the form of fritters. In all cases 

 where the fungus itself is to be eaten, the specimens 

 should be young and tender, the older individuals, 

 17 



