about its future existence. 



In the case of young birds, the first mating does not 

 amount to much, the eggs being undersized and the squabs 

 lacking" in vitality. 



HOW TO KILL AND COOL THE SQUABS. 



To kill a squab, do not use a knife, as the writers advise. 

 Hold the squab in the left hand. Take the head in the right 

 with the thumb at the base of the bill, give, it a slight 

 pull, then a push back. This dislocates the neck and in the 

 break of the spinal column a small cavity forms, and this fills 

 with the blood, draining the body. Pull hard and you wrench 

 the head from the body and spoil the looks of the squab. The 

 knack is easily acquired. The first time a woman tries it, she 

 may feel a bit squeamish, but not after she has mastered the 

 operation with the second or third squab. It is painless to 

 the squab and requires but little strength on the part of the 

 operator-— merely a little skill which is quickly acquired. 



Squabs to be killed should be gathered in the morning, 

 because then their crops are empty. 



The cooling of the killed squab is very important. It cost 

 us a good deal to learn the right way. They should not be 

 laid on a board or table, for the tender flesh will turn green 

 at the spot where it touches anything. They should not be 

 hung where rats, cats or dogs can get at them. We have 

 lengths of two by four inch studding and these lengths are 

 hung from the wall by pieces of wire. If the studding is 

 propped up with boards at each end, cats and mice will crawl 



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