104 DR. MILLERS 



The object of the two parts to the bottom-bar is to allow the 

 foundation to come down between them, thus making a close fit 

 without any pains to cut the foundation exactly. After the comb 

 is built in the frame the bottom-bar is no better for being in two 

 parts — perhaps not so good. Some of my frames have a solid 

 bottom ).7^xl}ix}i, with the foundation cut to fit exactly down on 

 the bottom-bar. I like them just as well. 



The side-spacing, which holds the frame the proper distance 

 from its next neighbor, is accomplished by means of common 

 wire nails. These nails are 1^4 inches long and rather heavy, 

 about 3-32 inch in thickness, with a head less than 54 inch across. 

 By means of a wooden gauge which allows them to be driven 

 only to a fixed depth, they are driven in to such a depth that the 

 head remains projecting out a fourth of an inch. 



Each frame has four spacing-nails. A nail is driven into each 

 end of the top-bar on opposite sides, the nail being about an inch 

 and a half from the extreme end of the top-bar, and a fourth of 

 an inch from its upper surface. About 2% inches from the bottom 

 of the frame a nail is driven into each end-bar, these nails being 

 also on opposite sides. Hold the frame up before you in its nat- 

 ural position, each hand holding one end of the top-bar, and the 

 two nails at the right end will be on the side from you, while the 

 two nails at the left end will be on the side nearest you. The end- 

 spacing is done by means of the usual staple, about ^ inch wide. 



Q. How is the foundation fastened to the top-bar? 



A. I prefer what is the usual way at the present time, as sug- 

 gested in the foregoing description, the foundation being received 

 in a saw-kerf and wedged there, but it can be fastened in any 

 other way. 



Q. I would like to ask your opinion, after reading your book 

 entitled "Fifty Years Among the Bees." On page 83 you give the 

 dimensions of your frames, and further on you mention splints, 

 which I think I would like. How would it do to make the bottom- 

 bar the same thickness as the top-bar, and instead of having two 

 grooves, one for foundation and one for wedge, have only one 

 groove in each bar? Then by having a board nearly the same 

 size as inside of frame, and thick enough to come to bottom of 

 grooves, the foundation, by buckling a trifle, could be made to 

 enter grooves? After boiling the splints in wax, buckle them into 

 place the same as foundation. Then use hot wax along the top 

 and bottom-bar to fasten it in. This would reduce the size of 

 frame, but with the Hoffman frames I find it hard to get the bees 

 to build down to the bottom bar as they should, so lose some 

 space there anyway. 



