GLASS AND GLAZING, PAINTING, ETO. 77 
with the longer sides of each square across the bars 
instead of parallel with them. When this is done, the 
squares are very liable to crack across the middle, and 
then they are sure to drip, and may drop out altogether. 
In all cases, fix the glass with its longest measurements 
the same way as the bars or rafters. Very long pieces 
of glass, again, frequently crack across, even when put 
in properly, especially as they are seldom quite straight 
(flat), and on the whole such proportions as 20in. by 16in. 
or 16in., 24in. by 18in., 15in. by 10in., etc., cannot easily 
be improved upon. 
When commencing to glaze a house, always begin at 
the bottom of the roof, and work upwards, rank by rank. 
Drive a couple of stout tacks, or short wire nails, in the 
‘‘drip’’ to keep the first square 
from slipping down, and to each of 
the others use three or four tacks 
or brads for a small square, or five 
or six to each large one. Shoemakers’ rivets are the best to 
use, the gths being a very useful size ; the brass rivets are 
superior to iron ones, as they do not rust, but they are, of 
course, rather more expensive. In default of a proper 
glazing hammer (see Fig. 59), the side of an old chisel 
makes a capital substitute. The two bottom brads, one on 
each side, must be driven in ov the lap, and not above it, or 
the glass will probably ‘fly ” across the corner. Drive a 
brad in on one or both sides half-an-inch from the top of 
each square, for the lower edge of the next one to rest on. 
This gives quite enough lap; more is unnecessary, and 
only obstructs the light when it gets clogged with dirt or 
slime. 
Fig. 59. 
