GLASS AND GLAZING, PAINTING, ETC. 79 
When glazing the ends of a house, upright side-lights, 
or doors, etc., the ends of the squares of glass are 
sometimes merely butted together, without any laps. 
In this way, less tacking is required, and the glass cannot 
possibly slip, but unless the edges are cut very true a 
good deal of air may be admitted where the squares meet. 
For best work the glass should all be lapped, and well 
tacked in; a couple of brads must be put in underneath 
each square, one on each side, so as to support it firmly, 
and prevent any slipping. All lights, etc., are, however, 
usually glazed on the flat, so that only the ends of a 
house have to be filled in upright. 
Only the best white lead paint ought ever to be used for 
greenhouse work, and to keep the houses in good condition 
a fresh coat ought to be given every year, or every second 
year at farthest. A very usual method, and one frequently 
stipulated for in building by contract, is to give ‘two 
coats down and one up’”—.e., two coats before erection 
and one afterwards. Personally, I would as soon glaze 
on one coat of paint as on two, and put the extra one 
on after, but two thin coats of priming are better than one 
thick one, and thorough priming is an important point. 
Red and white lead mixed is usually employed for priming, 
and nothing but the best (boiled) linseed oil, with a moderate 
quantity of ‘‘turps,” and a little patent driers, should be 
used in mixing all paints. Always mix thoroughly, taking 
plenty of time over the job, and strain before use. Of course, 
neither outside painting nor glazing ought ever to be done 
unless the bars and other woodwork are perfectly dry, in 
fact, neither can be performed properly when the wood is in 
the least damp. For the later coats, white is usually put 
