CABBAGE 469 



will well repay attention to watering and thinning. The rows should 

 be 3 or 4 inches apart. When the plants are large enough to trans- 

 plant, they may be planted where early vegetables have been grown. 

 Set the plants from 18 to 24 inches apart in the row, the rows being 

 3 feet apart for the medium-growing kinds. One ounce of seed will 

 furnish about 2000 plants. 



All cabbages require deep and rich soil, and one that holds moisture 

 well. Regular cultivation should be given so that moisture may be 

 saved and the growth be continuous. 



For early planting, the number of varieties is limited to three or 

 four. For an. intermediate crop the Ust is more extended, and the late 

 varieties are very numerous. The early list is headed by the Jersey 

 Wakefield, a variety that heads very quickly, and, although not one 

 of the solid kinds, is generally grown. The Early York and Winnig- 

 stadt are good varieties to follow it. The latter especially is solid and 

 of very good quality. For the midseason, the Succession and All Season 

 are of the best, and for the winter supply the Drumhead, Danish Ball, 

 and Flat Dutch tjrpes are leaders. One of the best of the cabbages 

 for table use is seldom seen in the garden — the Savoy cabbage. It is 

 a type with netted leaves, making a large, low-growing head, the center 

 of which is very solid and of excellent flavor, especially late in the fall, 

 when the heads have had a slight touch of frost. Savoy should be 

 grown in every private garden. 



The best remedy for the cabbage worm is to kill the first brood on 

 the very young plants with Paris green. After the plants begin to 

 head, pyrethrum, kerosene emulsion, or salt water may be used. On 

 a small area, hand-picking may be recommended (p. 200). 



The maggot is the most serious cabbage pest. After studying the 

 seventy odd remedies proposed, Slingerland concludes that six are effi- 

 cient and practicable: growing" the young plants in closely covered 

 frames; tarred paper cards placed snugly about the base of the plants 

 to keep the fly away; rubbing the eggs from the base of the plant; 

 hand-picking of the maggots; treating the plants with emulsion of 

 carbolic acid; treating them with carbon bisulfide. The insecticidal 

 materials are injected or poured into the soil about the base of the 

 plant (pp. 187, 201). 



The club-root, which causes' the roots to become greatly thickened 



