>S5 LETTER FROM ROME 03 



In January 1885 he went to Rome, whence he writes : — 



Hotel Victoria, Via dei due Macelli, 

 Rome, Jan. 8, 1885. 



My dear Foster — We have been here a fortnight very well 

 >dged — south aspect, fireplace, and all the rest of the essentials 

 xcept sunshine. Of this last there is not much more than in 

 England, and the grey skies day after day are worthy of our 

 ative land. Sometimes it rains cats and dogs all day by way 

 f a change — as on Christmas Day — but it is not cold. " Quite 

 xceptional weather," they tell us, but that seems to be the rule 

 verywhere. We have done a respectable amount of gallery- 

 laving, and I have been amusing myself by picking up the 

 jpography of ancient Rome. I was going to say Pagan Rome, 

 ut the inappropriateness of the distinction strikes me, papal 

 Lome being much more stupidly and childishly pagan than im- 

 erial. I never saw a sadder sight than the kissing a wretched 

 edizened doll of a Bambino that went on in the Ara Coeli on 

 "welfth day. Your puritan soul would have longed to arise 

 nd slay. . . . 



As to myself, though it is a very unsatisfactory subject and 

 ne I am very tired of bothering my friends about, I am like the 

 armer at the rent-dinner, and don't find myself much " for- 

 arder." That is to say, I am well for a few days and then all 

 drift, and have to put myself right by dosing with Clark's pills, 

 mich are really invaluable. They will make me believe in those 

 ills I saw advertised in my youth, and which among other 

 hings were warranted to cure " the indecision of juries." I 

 eally can't make out my own condition. I walked seven or 

 ight miles this morning over Monte Mario and out on the Cam- 

 agna without any particular fatigue, and yesterday I was as 

 liserable as an owl in sunshine. Something perhaps must be 

 ut down to the relapse which our poor girl had a week ago, 

 nd which became known to us in a terrible way. She had 

 pparently quite recovered, and arrangements were made for 

 leir going abroad, and now everything is upset. I warned 

 er husband that this was very likely, but did not sufficiently 

 ike the warning to myself. 



You are taking a world of trouble for me, and Donnelly 

 rrites I am to do as I like so far as they are concerned. I have 

 eard nothing from the Home Office, and I suppose it would be 

 roper for me to write if I want any more leave. I really hardly 

 now what to do. I can't say I feel very fit for the hurly-burly 



