38 THE ROSE BOOK 



during the summer following the hard pruning ; instead 

 of being allowed to grow perpendicularly they should 

 be spread out fan-shaped. If trained to the wall in an up- 

 right fashion, it is more than likely that the following 

 spring fresh shoots will develop on the upper part only, 

 ■which would nullify the good effect of the severe initial 

 pruning. The amateur should remember the necessity 

 for encouraging fresh shoots from the base of the tree 

 each season. So long as this is accomplished so long will 

 the rose tree remain youthful, vigorous, and free blossom- 

 ing. For the first two or three years the end in view is 

 usually attained by keeping the stems well bent down, 

 thus checking the flow of sap and forcing the development 

 of basal growths. As the tree becomes bigger it is neces- 

 sary, each March, to cut down one of the older stems 

 almost to the base to ensure the appearance of a new, 

 vigorous growth to take its place. But much can be 

 done to ensure the foundation of a good, well-shaped, 

 healthy tree by keeping the stems formed in the earlier 

 years well spread out, instead of allowing them to grow 

 perpendicularly, as they naturally will if not attended 

 to. When the tree has passed two summers the ortho- 

 dox pruning is followed in respect of cutting back, to 

 within two or three buds of the base, all side shoots that 

 issue from the older branches. It often happens, also, 

 that a branch may be somewhat worn out and weakly, 

 yet towards the centre a strong shoot may have de- 

 veloped. In such a case the obvious thing to do is to 

 ,cut the branch back to the strong new shoot. 



