ROSES FOR WALLS AND FENCES 8i 



the rose grows old before it has passed its normal youth. 

 It is best to fiU the hole a week or two before the rose 

 is planted, so that the soil may settle to something like 

 its ordinary level. 



As to the pruning, well, nearly everyone has his own 

 pet opinion as to the best course to pursue in the spring 

 following planting. Personally, I always cut down 

 climbing roses to within five or six inches of the base 

 in March of the first year, and 1 have found it to result 

 in the establishment of strong plants. If the roses 

 planted in late October or early November are full of 

 vigour in spring, and show signs of starting growth 

 freely, it may serve the same purpose if the stems are 

 tied out horizontally to the wall or fence, or, if not quite 

 horizontally, at least as low as they Can be bent without 

 danger of being broken. The object of each method 

 is to force the development of strong shoots from the 

 base. Lacking these, no rose can livelong and healthily. 



As the years pass, some varieties are more prone to 

 get bare at the base than others, and, do what one will, 

 it is not always possible to get leafy stems to the ground 

 level. But there are a few simple rules which, if followed, 

 will go far to ensure a well-behaved and attractive tree. 

 Old worn-out shoots must always give way to fresh 

 young stems ; " youth will be served, my masters," and 

 especially in climbing roses on walls. It is a good plan, 

 annually or biennially, to cut down one or two old stems 

 with the object of encouraging fresh ones from some- 

 where near the base. When young, strong growths 

 appear, they should be trained, not perpendicularly, but 



