202 THE ROSE BOOK 



All buds or eyes, except three at the top, are removed, 

 and the base of the cutting is formed by cutting across 

 beneath a bud. Plant in well-dug soil in rows fifteen 

 inches apart and about two inches apart in the rows. 

 Leave about three inches of the cutting above the soil. 

 The best time to make Brier cuttings is in September 

 and early October. They remain in the bed of soil until 

 the next autumn, when they are dug up and the roots 

 and tops trimmed back and " heeled in," i.e. placed in a 

 shallow trench, the roots covered with soil, until Feb- 

 ruary or March. They are then planted out (ready for 

 budding in July) in rows three feet apart, each plant 

 being about eight inches from the other in the rows. 



Seedling Brier. — Plants of the seedling Brier are 

 preferably obtained from a grower. It does not pay for 

 amateurs to raise their own. The seedling Brier has a 

 long, tapering root, which goes deeply in search of food, 

 and for this reason the autumnal crop of blossom is far 

 superior to that produced by plants on the Brier cutting. 

 Readers planting roses for garden display will be well 

 advised to obtain plants on the seedling Brier. The 

 bud is inserted on the " collar " of the plant — ^between 

 the top of the root stock and that point from where the 

 growths start, so that in planting, this small portion of 

 the root stock is left above ground. The seedling Brier 

 should be put out in rows as advised for the Brier 

 cuttings. 



The Manetti. — ^This is an Italian rose introduced many 

 years ago by Signer Manetti. It is a tender stock, and of 

 little value save for budding Ramblers upon and some 



