CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS 35 



ing the others, the plant receives a violent shock from 

 which it will take it months to recover. 



Of course, after cutting off some of the roots, the 

 top must be cut back correspondingly, or the plant 

 would be likely to die, for there will not be sufficient 

 root action to support all the old branches. If cut 

 back at the roots, new roots will have to be formed 

 before growth can take place. The plant must first 

 become re-established. You will readily see, therefore, 

 that when this plan is pursued you have, in fall, at 

 the very time when the plant should be at its best — 

 strong, vigorous, and able to stand the change from 

 out to indoor conditions — a plant getting, or trying 

 to get, a fresh start; a plant that has received a 

 shock, whereby its vitality is greatly weakened. The 

 change from out to indoor life will be so abrupt and 

 so decided that it will be still further weakened by it. 

 Otit of doors, in fresh air, and under natural condi- 

 tions, it might recover much sooner; but the close 

 living room, with its dry air, and great heat, will 

 hasten the down-hill tendency of the plant, and it is 

 not to be wondered at that so many die in fall when 

 brought into the house. Of course, if plants could be 

 taken up without disturbing the roots, this method of 

 summering them would be a good one, because they 

 grow so much better and are more robustly healthy 

 in the open ground than when kept in pots. But as 

 it is utterly impossible to take them up without dis- 

 turbing the roots, I would not advise planting them 

 out in summer. 



I would advise keeping house plants during sum- 

 mer on a veranda with eastern or northern exposure. 

 If you have only a southern or western one, give a 

 screen of lattice or vines. The sun will burn many 

 tender plants exposed to it from noon to three o'clock. 

 An eastern or northern exposure is preferable, because 



