36 HOME FLORICULTURE 



no screen will be required, and therefore there will be 

 a freer circulation of air. The heat will also be much 

 less intense. Water daily, and give a liberal quantity 

 to all plants which you want to make a vigorous 

 growth. If some are needing rest — as will be the 

 case with most winter blooming kinds — give less — 

 just enough, in fact, to keep the earth from getting 

 so dry that the plant will wilt. Go over your plants 

 once a week, and when you see a branch getting 

 the start of the others, nip it off. If a plant persists 

 in growing tall and "leggy," cut the top off, and keep 

 on doing this until branches start along the stalk. 

 Now is the time to make your plants assume the 

 bushy, compact shape you will want them to have 

 when removed to the house in winter. Stir the soil in 

 the pots once a week. If fresh soil was given in 

 spring, do not give any fertilizer. You do not want 

 to force the growth at all — simply to keep it growing 

 steadily and healthily. 



When the time comes to take in your plants, do 

 not make the change from out to indoors an abrupt 

 one, as many do. They put them in the sitting room 

 window and seem to take it for granted that that 

 is all that is necessary. Not so. The plants have 

 had plenty of fresh, cool air out of doors, and if 

 denied this all at once, they pine and suffer. Give 

 them all the fresh air possible for days after putting 

 them in the house. Keep them as cool as possible. 

 It is better to put them in a room where there is no 

 fire, at first. Accustom them to the change between 

 out and indoor conditions as gradually as possible. 

 Don't be abrupt about it if you want your plants to 

 do well. I often am told by amateurs that their plants 

 were budded when brought in, but the buds turned 

 yellow and fell off in a week or two, and thev don't 

 understand the cause of it. It almost always happens 



