ULLSWATEE. 51 



Hartsop, and then winds on, for three or four miles, 

 among the rich levels of Patterdale, 

 which IS guarded by mountains jutting 

 forward like promontories. The Patterdale Inn, is 

 another of the first-rate hotels of the district. The 

 stranger, who must have left Windermere early in 

 the morning, if he decides to make this his resting- 

 place, hastens to order a car or a boat, to take him 

 to Gowbarrow Park, and desires that dinner may 

 await him in about three hours' time. 



There is now another inn, the Ullswater Hotel, 

 about a mile further on, which offers the traveller 

 a choice of going nearer the lake, if he 

 Wishes. He cannot go wrong in his 

 selection. The Patterdale Inn is an old favourite, 

 the Ullswater is new, but is understood to be under 

 good management. 



From whichever inn he starts, if the weather is 

 calm and fine, the tourist has a boat to the Park. As 

 soon as he is afloat, the beauties of Ullswater open 

 upon him, — the great Place Fell occupying the whole 

 space to the right ; and Stybarrow Crag, precipitous 

 and wooded, shoots up on the left-hand bank, The 

 road winds below it, under trees, passing good 

 houses, and the paths to Helvellyn, and to the lead 

 works, and to Grlencoin, — all recesses full of beauty. 

 Tales are told of artists who, turning into Glencoin, 

 to find materials for a sketch, have not come out 

 again for three months, finding themselves over^ 

 whelmed with tempting subjects for the pencil. 

 The singularly primitive character of the popular 

 mind in those secluded corners is almost as great 

 an incitement to study as the variety and richness 

 of the foregrounds and the colouring, 

 d2 



