FAYAL AND THE PORTUGUESE 275 
chimneys to the buildings, but sometimes there 
is a building to the chimney ; the latter being 
a picturesque tower with smoke coming from 
the top and a house appended to the base. 
One half the women go about bareheaded, save 
a handkerchief, and with a good deal of bare- 
ness at the other extremity, —while the other 
half wear vast conical hoods attached to volu- 
minous cloth cloaks which sweep the ground. 
The men cover their heads with all sorts of 
burdens, and their feet with nothing, or else 
with raw-hide slippers, hair outside. There is 
no roar or rumble in the streets, for there are 
no vehicles and no horses, but an endless stream 
of little donkeys, clicking the rough pavement 
beneath their sharp hoofs, and thumped solidly 
by screaming drivers. Who wears the new 
shoes on the island does not appear, since al- 
most everybody goes barefoot; but the hens 
limp about the houses, tethered to old ones. 
Further inspection reveals new marvels. The 
houses are roofed with red and black tiles, semi- 
cylindrical in shape and rusty in surface, and 
making the whole town look as if incrusted with 
barnacles. There is never a pane of glass on 
the lower story, even for the shops, but only 
barred windows and solid doors. Every house 
has a paved courtyard for the ground floor, 
into which donkeys may be driven and where 
