322 OUTDOOR STUDIES 
blazed above it. During the time of darkness 
there were frequent masses and sermons, while 
terrible transparencies of the Crucifixion were 
suddenly unrolled from the lofty pulpit, and 
the throng below wept in sympathy, and 
clapped their cheeks in token of anguish, like 
the fluttering of many doves. Then came the 
Hallelujah Saturday, when at noon the mourn- 
ing ended. It wasa breathless moment. The 
priests kneeled in gorgeous robes, chanting 
monotonously, with their foreheads upon the 
altar steps; and the hushed multitude hung 
upon their lips, waiting for the coming joy. 
Suddenly burst the words, Gloria in Excelszs. 
In an instant every door was flung open, every 
curtain withdrawn, the great church was bathed 
in meridian sunlight, the organ crashed out tri- 
umphant, the bells pealed, flowers were thrown 
from the galleries, friends embraced each other, 
laughed, talked, and cried; and all the sea of 
gay headdresses below was tremulous beneath 
a mist of unaccustomed splendor. 
I cannot dwell upon the narrative of our 
many walks : to the Espalamarca, with its lonely 
telegraph station; to the Burnt Mountain, with 
its colored cliffs; to visit the few aged nuns 
who still linger in what was once a convent ; 
to Porto Pim, with its curving Italian beach, its 
playing boys and picturesque fishermen beneath 
