138 THE HIGHLANDS OF CENTEAL INDIA 



Doubtless at all these gatherings there are a certain 

 number of genuine pilgrims, whose end in coming is the 

 performance of sacred rites at these holy shrines at such 

 holy seasons ; for the fairs are all held at times when the 

 worship of the local deity is held to be particularly effica- 

 cious. But generally their number is no greater a pro- 

 portion of the whole than is that of the " members of the 

 ring " in a Derby crowd. Such gatherings usually occur 

 near the large centres of population, where solemn temples 

 crown some sacred eminence by the holy Narbada. But 

 the gathering at the Mahadeo shrine was of another 

 character from these holiday outings. It draws its mtdti- 

 tudes into a remote and desolate valley surrounded by the 

 " eternal hills," where the Great God has his chiefest 

 dwelling-place in these central regions. No gorgeous 

 temples or impressive ritual attract the sight-seer. The 

 pathways leading to the place are mere tracks, scarcely 

 discernible in the rank jungle, and here and there scahng 

 precipitous rocks, where the feet of covintless pilgrims 

 have worn steps in the stone. Young and old have to 

 track out these paths on foot; and all the terrors of 

 pestilence, wild beasts, and the demons and spirits of the 

 waste surround the approach in their excited imaginations. 

 Arrived at the foot of the holy hill, the pilgrim finds 

 neither jollity nor anjrthing more than the barest require- 

 ments of existence awaiting him. His food is dry parched 

 grain, his couch on the naked earth, during his sojourn 

 in the presence of Mahadeva. Should he be among the 

 first to arrive, the tiger may chance to dispute with him 

 the right to quench his thirst at the watering-place in the 

 Denwa river. ^ Those who come to a place like this for 

 pleasure must be few indeed. 



On my way back to Puchmurree, as I passed through 

 the assembled multitudes, many of them were starting, 

 after a dip of purification in the holy stream, to scale 

 the heights that contain the shrine. My way also lay 

 up the pilgrims' pass; and as I went I passed through 

 numerous groups of them slowly toiling up the steep 



^ As I went to Motur on this occasion I saw the track of a tiger 

 where the pilgrims drink. They had not then arrived, of course. 



