The Feather's Practical Pigeon Book 



same depth; take pieces of common telegraph-wire 5 

 inches long and insert in these holes solidly as far as 

 their depth will allow. Then bore in each end of the 

 stick other holes an inch deep ; in these insert pieces of 

 v/ire 2 inches long. These answer for axles, as it were, 

 for the bolting-wire to move on. After this is finished 

 put a screw-eye on the left of the opening made in the 

 board near thfe top, then insert one end of the axle in 

 this. Place another eye on the opposite side, opening 

 the eye so as to permit the other axle to slip into place. 

 This you will see gives you a little swinging gate that 

 should just about fit the hole cut in the board. By plac- 

 ing another piece of wire across the bottom of the hole 

 just so the ends of the longer wires hit it, you prevent 

 it swinging outward, while it opens easily to the inside. 

 The object of this is to allow any belated pigeons admis- 

 sion to the loft after the falling door is closed, and yet 

 preventing any from leaving until the door is again 

 opened. Pigeons soon learn to kn,ow the purpose for 

 which this is intended, and avail themselves of it. 



When possible, a building erected for the purpose 

 and one story in height I consider the best. This saves 

 climbing stairs and consequently is much more easily 

 taken care of than a second-floor loft. Where built for 

 the purpose it can just as well be made rat, cat, and 

 even man and boy proof, as a more elevated room. By 

 excavating the ground for about a foot in depth, filling 

 this in with cinders or broken stone, and then giving 

 it a coating of asphalt, you have a rat-proof floor, and 

 one that is easily cleaned at all times, besides being 

 free from dampness. Covered a few inches deep 

 with clean, white sand or pine saw-dust, it will keep 

 sweet and clean for a long time, especially if occasion- 

 ally raked with a fine-tooth rake, and all refuse that 



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