ENEMIES OP BEES. 265 



botlora-board and the back of tlie hive. Inio this warm hid- 

 ing place, the full grown worm will retreat to spin its cocoon, 

 and it may then be very easily Caught and effectually dealt 

 with. Hollow slicks, or split joints of cane may be set under 

 the hives, so as to elevate them, or, may belaid on the 

 bottom-board, and if they have a few small openings through 

 which the bees cannot enter, the worms will tuke possession 

 of them, and may easily be destroyed. Only provide 

 some hollow, inaccessible to the bees, but communicating 

 with the hive and easily accessible to the worms when they 

 want to spin, and to yourself when you want them, and if 

 the bees are in good health, so that they will not permit the 

 worms to spin among the combs, you can, with ease, entrap 

 nearly all of them. If the hive has lost its queen, and the 

 worms have gained possession of it, you can do nothing for 

 it better than to break ii up as soon as possible, unless you 

 prefer to reserve it as a moth trap to devastate your whole 

 Apiary. 



I make use of blocks of a peculiar construction, in order 

 both to entrap the worms, and to exclude the moth from my 

 hives. The only place where the moth can enter, is just 

 where the bees are going in and out, and this passage may 

 be contracted so as to suit the size of the colony : the 

 very shape of it is such that if the moth attempts to 

 force an entrance, she is obliged to travel over a space ' 

 which is continually narrowing, and of course, is more 

 and more easily defended by the bees. My traps are 

 slightly elevated, so that the heat and odor of the hive 

 pass under them, and come out through small open- 

 ings into which the moth can enter, but which do not 

 admit her into the hive. These openings, which are 

 so much like the crevices between the common hives 

 and their bottom-boards, the" moth will enter, rather than 

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