MOUNTING HEADS, ANTLERS, AND HORNS. VO 



manner through the skull, between the tusks and grind- 

 ers, and screw up tightly. Wire the under-jaw firmly in 

 position, and run the cavities of the skull full of plaster. 

 This will make the whole solid and strong. A neck- 

 board can then be mortised and bolted in the occipital 

 bone, which, in large heads, is preferable to irons. 

 1 If antlers are mounted only, the skull should be cut 

 down so that the horns may hare the proper position 

 when fastened on a shield. They are. best secured by long 

 screws, and the skull braced by cement. Pieces of black- 

 walnut should be fitted closely around the burr of the 

 horns, and glned to the shield, when they can be carved to 

 any design. The skull can be wholly concealed by com- 

 position work, and ornamented with Grecian leaves, imi- 

 tation of natural leaves, or any design of wood-work. The 

 outer edge of shields should be carved ogee pattern, and 

 the faces may be ornamented with light raised composi- 

 tion work, or chased and inlaid with black or gold. 



Horns of mountain sheep, goats, cattle, etc. , having a 

 porous bone filling, often come loose from the skull when 

 dry. They may be fastened to the skulls, by pouring a 

 little thin plaster in them, and quickly replacing them on 

 the skulls. 



Large, curved horns are usually mounted on heads 

 carved in full, as they are awkward in shape when 

 mounted on shields. To finish off any carved work in 

 walnut, give a coat of shellac, dissolved in pure alcohol, 

 and, when dry, rub off lightly, using chamois skin, moist- 

 ened with kerosene. 



