DWYEE'S GUIDE, 61 



strong, bushy and vigorous and well able to hold up their fruit from the 

 soil. In the large Raspberry fruiting districts this system of growing is 

 •used almost exclusively. The severe annual pruning back has a ten- 

 dency to make the plants short lived, and plantations cultivated under 

 this treatment rarely last more than five or six years at the best. With 

 the continuous row system of fruiting the plants will be at their best for 

 ten to twelve years. In any ease, the old wood should be cut out each 

 year. This can be done any time after the fruit is gathered until along 

 in the following Spring. The first year that Raspberries are set we can 

 crop the ground between the rows with any of the low growing vegetables 

 like Potatoes, Beets and their kindred. The plants will come into fruit- 

 ing the first year after being planted and under ordinary favorable con- 

 ditions should produce quite a full crop of fruit; they will then need the 

 use of all the land. Fertilizers should be used while planting and after- 

 wards of the same kinds and in the same quantities per acre as for 

 Strawberries. A light application of well rotted manure on the surface 

 of the ground around the plants during the Winter months is very bene- 

 ficial. 



Winter Protection. — In some of the cold Northern climates the Rasp- 

 berry occasionally winter kills. >Where this is apt to occur it is the prac- 

 tice to lay down the fruiting canes in November or December and cover 

 one-half or more of it from the tip end with soil. This covering need not 

 be heavy. This is resorted to when the fruit is grown for the family 

 use; it is quite too expensive when we are growing fruit with a view to 

 profit for commercial purpoises, yet we find a few large growers protecting 

 their Raspberries in this way; they, however, use the old hill method 

 of fruiting, leaving four to six canes in each hill and tieing them to small 

 stakes. These hills are planted four feet apart in the furrows, two plants 

 set together in each hill; the distance between the rows should be six 

 feet, then, of course, this protection can be practiced with the continuous 

 row system of fruiting, however, not with the bushy plant method, as it 

 would be impossible to lay these stocky plants down for this purpose. 

 Be it remembered, however, that it is only in rare instances where it is 

 necessary to go to the expense and trouble of this Winter covering of the 

 canes with soil. We have a good list of old reliable hady standard 

 varieties of American origin that will rarely be winter killed. These 

 will be carefully selected and named hereafter. 



Anthracnoce. — This is a fungus disease that occasionally attacks 

 the canes of the Raspberry close to the ground. The canes become 

 brown and rusty and should be removed at once and burned, otherwise it 

 will infest the entire plantation. When it first attacks the plant you can 

 notice the results from it on the foliage which becomes sickly looking. 



Cane Blight. — This is also a fungus disease and attacks the canes 

 in all parts, the wood turning black and shriveling away. The part of the 

 canes thus affected should be cut away and at once burned. 



If at any time your plants show signs of leaf rust, spray at once with 

 the Bordeaux Mixture, without the Paris Green. You should not spray 

 while the plants are in fruiting. 



Spraying. — This should be attended to in the early Spring before 

 vegetation starts, using the Bordeaux Mixture without the Paris Green. 

 When this spraying is thoroughly done at this season there is little danger 

 from any of the fungusi troubles heretofore named. 



Varieties. — The selection of varieties hereafter named is on the whole 

 the result of years of practical experience and experiments by the author. 



