DWYEE'S GUIDE. 71 



us remunerative prices, so that we are prepared to say thiat for com- 

 merciar purposes the Currant can be made a decided success. Tlien 

 for the home garden there is scarcely any fruit more useful and 

 desirable in so many different ways; in fact, no private garden is com- 

 plete without a good selection of the red, white and black varieties that 

 will prolong the season for fruit as far as possible. Fortunately, this can 

 be cone with a very few of the best varieties. 



Preparation of the Soil. — Any land that will answer for the ordinary 

 farm crop will do for the Currant. The ground should be prepared the 

 same as for Strawberries, as explained on page 49. Firm the soil 

 thoroughly about the roots with the use of the feet; the plants should be 

 pruned back one-half at the time of planting — the after pruning is very 

 simple and easily done, removing one-half the new wood each year and 

 also any old or dead wood. Neglect of annual pruning will soon bring the 

 bush into a large and unfruitful plant, besides the fruit will depreciate both 

 in size, color and quality, when grown under this neglected condition. 



The Two Systems. — There are two separate ways of cultivating the 

 Currant. The Row System, is to plant four feet apart in the row and 

 five feet apart between the rows, with this method you can only cultivate 

 your plants one way. 



The Hill System, is to plant five feet apart each way, grow the 

 plants in the hills and cultivate both ways. This plan minimizes 

 the hand labor to a considerable extent, as quite all of the til- 

 lage can be done with the use of the plow and cultivator, in fact, a 

 crop of Currants grown in this way can be matured quite as cheaply as 

 a crop of corn or potatoes. When one is planting in a large way, and 

 when it is practicable, this is decidedly the best and most economical 

 method of growing. This system requiresi 1,750 plants for a solid acre of 

 Currants. 



When to Plant. — Currants should be planted as early as possible; 

 we must remember that this is one of the very first fruits to start vege- 

 tation in the Spring, consequently, they should be transplanted early, 

 while in dormant condition. March and April are the months to plant in 

 the Spring, the earlier the better. Currants are one of the first fruits to 

 lose their foliage. In the Autumn, therefore, they can be planted with ad- 

 vantage any time after September first until December first, and between 

 these dates is perhaps the best time to plant the Currant. When planted 

 at this season it is beneficial to place a large forkful or two of manure 

 about each plant as a little protection during the Winter months and as 

 a fertilizer. 



The Currant Worm. — This is perhaps the worst enemy we have to 

 contend with in the cultivation of this fruit. It is a long green worm 

 that attacks the foliage early in the Summer, usually about June first or 

 just after we have had two or three days of very warm weather. If left 

 unmolested they will soon defoliate the bushes, when the fruit will be- 

 come scalded and quite worthless from the direct hot rays of the sun 

 Fortunately, we can cope with this enemy easily and cheaply. As soon 

 as they appear, at once spray with the Bordeaux Mixture and Paris Green 

 added as formulated on page 11, this single spraying if thoroughly done 

 will generally be sufficient and all that is needed; however, if another 

 brood appers s'pray a second time as before. The Bordeaux spray will al- 

 so eradicate any possible funguous disease that your plants may be 

 troubled with. This spray is cheap, efficacious, easily applied and will 

 kill the worms in a few hours. 



Cane Blight. — This attacks the Currants at different growing sea- 



