BWYEK'S GUIDE- 89 



ful of wood ashes with the loose soil, which will at once begin to force 

 our trees into growing. 



How to Plant. — Do not allow the roots to remain exposed to the 

 wind and sun. This is very detrimental. Although not necessary, it is ad- 

 visable to wet the roots before planting. The soil will more readily ad- 

 here to them and assist them to take their nourishment from mother 

 earth much sooner than if planted in a dry condition. Place the tree or 

 shrub in i^e hole and carefully spread the roots. Do not allow them to 

 come in contact with the hard edges of the hole. Take the good top 

 soil which we have reserved and place it on the roots and work it 

 amongst them. We are now at the most vital part of our planting, and 

 must not neglect to use foot power to firm the soil about the roots. This 

 thorough firming being done, we proceed to fill in the hole with the re- 

 maining soil to about six inches of the top. Put about two good forks of 

 well-rotted manure on top of the soil, and fill in the remaining soil to the 

 level of the ground. The object of covering the manure is to prevent 

 the escape of nitrogen in the form of ammonia and reap the benefits of 

 the elements of plant food contained in the manure. 



Mulching. — A very good practice, and one quite frequently neglected, is 

 mulching the tree after planting. It is very simple and inexpensive. Any 

 loose straw, litter or grass that may be on hand may answer the purpose. 

 By this means we keep the weeds down and hold the moisture, which is 

 quite necessary lor the sustenance of plant life. 



Fall Planting should be done in October, November and De- 

 cember, and can be very much improved by mounding soil about the 

 trunk of the tree to the height of about twelve inches. In this way we 

 accomplish the double purpose of keeping the borers from entering the 

 tree at the crown, which is the point he enters to begin his depreda- 

 tions, and that of keeping the tree from swaying with the winds. The 

 distance to set ornamental shade trees must be governed by the result 

 we desire to attain. We must consider the future when we are planning 

 and arranging our landscape work and at all times keep it uppermost 

 in our mind. To be successful in this line we must accomplish two pur- 

 poses. Our work must be practical and pleasing to the eye, conse- 

 quently we must give our work careful consideration and study the ob- 

 ject in view. In beautifying home grounds we can by a judicious selec- 

 tion combine beautification and durability. For instance, if I were doing 

 the landscape work on a country place, or in a park, I would employ for 

 shade trees along the roads permanent trees, such as the Acer Sacchar- 

 inum (Sugar Maple) or Acer Platanoides (Norway Maple), both of 

 which are of slow growth and very beautiful. With ordinary care these 

 varieties will live for generations. We could use many other species 

 that would at first give results which would be pleasing to us, but would 

 be only temporaiy, being short lived. The distance apart to plant shade 

 trees along private drives or avenues is between twenty-five and thirty 

 feet. By this means we give the roots sufficient soil from which to 

 take their nourishment, and at the same time allow the branches to de- 

 velop and spread in their natural way, without any interefernce. It is 

 quite necessary in arranging trees on the lawn to plant in clumps. By 

 this means we can acquire a more finished appearance than planting 

 singly. In that case we must plant at a lesser distance apart. From 

 fifteen to twenty feet is the proper distance. 



Pruning Back. — At the time of planting cut back the branches of 

 the tree or shrub fully one-half, always keeping in mind to aid you the 

 general or natural formation of the specie. Then make smooth all muti- 



