THE PIGEON BOOK 103 



being gulled, and the consequent waste of time and 

 money, therefore have less in quantity with the same out- 

 lay, as quality always tells before quantity on the road 

 to success. 



If these hints are adhered to and nothing but reliable 

 stock procured, and care exercised in mating, a beginner 

 can soon expect to be in the fighting line at our many 

 shows, where a good many very valuable specials are 

 offered for this variety. 



A few hints as to food, management, etc., may be 

 useful. The aviaries should not be too much enclosed, 

 giving a fair amount of open space, though free from 

 excessive draughts, and well supplied with gravel and 

 grit. 



The best food during the breeding season is sound old 

 maple peas, best tares, a little good clean dari, wheat, 

 and small Indian corn. After the breeding season is 

 over give best old tic beans, maples and tares, with an 

 occasional handful of wheat, Indian corn, rice, barley, 

 hemp, and canary seed ; a little extra of the two latter 

 during moulting will greatly assist the birds through, not 

 forgetting to allow them a bath every four or five days 

 in summer and every eight or ten days in winter, and give 

 occasionally a little lettuce, watercress, etc. 



For strong, healthy youngsters — so essential to success 

 — the breeding stock should not be mated up till the 

 beginning of March, and care should be exercised not to 

 mate together two birds with the same faults or defects, 

 but mate up a pair so that one is extra prominent in the 

 points where the other fails. 



The birds should be separated in July to prepare for 

 their moult and the forthcoming winter shows, and the 

 sexes must be kept apart till the following March. 



I suppose now a few hints as to the standard points 



