TEACHING TO LEAD. 



127 



"jerk upon the cords, which will contract the noose around the body, 

 and so hurt and frighten the colt that he will jump ahead. Simply 

 repeat a few times, when he will follow around freely. 



Sometimes doubling the cord and bringing 'the two under the 

 tail, then twisting them two or three times over the back, knotting 

 them together in front of the breast, and pulling in the same manner, 

 will work better. The objection is that some Colts will kick when 

 the pressure of the cord is felt under the tail. It will in any event 

 be found a very nice means to make a sullen, unbroken colt lead 

 quickly. It took me a good many years to learn this simple trick. 

 Once a colt was brought in that sulked so badly that he could not 

 be made to lead. On the impulse of the moment, I took the War 



Fig. 155.— Colts as Usually Made io Follow on a Run by a few Minutes' 

 Treatment before the Class. 



Bridle, brought it under the tail, and gave a quick, sharp pull for- 

 ward. The consequence was, he jumped nearly ten feet ahead, and* 

 ' in fact, I had all I could do to hold him. This worked very well 

 until I found a colt that it caused to kick, which I remedied by 

 bringing the noose around the body as described. Once a man in 

 Pennsylvania offered to join -my class if we could make a colt he had 

 lead. He stated that the colt wa,s five years old, and could not be 

 led ; he would be satisfied if we could make the colt lead across the 

 barn. I directed one of my men to go to the man's place, to put a 

 halter on the colt, and put on the cord under the tail, as described, 

 and bring him along. The first the people knew he had him Tun- 

 ing after him into the inclosure. We then"; pf course trained hfm by 



