78 SUNSHINE AND SPORT IN 



wrath and wasted expletives, since I had not an 

 acquaintance in the place and was forced to rage 

 alone. To add to the irony of the situation, the 

 palatial hotel beside the depot, to which I at once 

 repaired, had technically been closed for a week or 

 two. The proprietor explained civilly enough that 

 he could give me a room for the night, but that I 

 should have to get my meals in the town. This 

 was what Americans call the " European plan " 

 with a vengeance, and it had its drawbacks in a 

 hamlet where eating-houses are very few and very 

 bad. To the first of these, an unsavoury-looking 

 barrack in the only street, I betook myself with a 

 demand for lunch, and Boniface, a greasy saloon- 

 keeper in his shirt-sleeves, said that I could have 

 some dinner if I took my hat off. Staggered by 

 this unexpected behest, I looked around for some 

 explanation and espied, at the farthest table in the 

 dining-room, what might at first sight have passed 

 for an ant-eater in a bath robe, but what eventually 

 proved on closer scrutiny to be a generous-looking 

 female in summer attire. In deference to this 

 appalling snack of womanhood I removed first my 

 hat and then myself, leaving Boniface gasping at 

 my waywardness. Who, after this, shall say that 

 American chivalry is dead ? 



My next raid on the slender, local commissariat 

 was a little happier in its results, for at an equally 

 unpretentious tavern beside the railroad I managed 

 to get some fresh fish, decently cooked, and a cup 

 of indescribable tea, without also receiving a lesson 

 in manners. 



The meal occupied only a few minutes, and time 

 had to be killed somehow. It struck me that, as 



