so BREEDING GOLDFISHES 



on the second and third days. The infertile eggs turn white on the 

 second day and soon become the centre of a ball of fungus. Their 

 comparative prominence soon convinces the beginner that most of the 

 eggs are bad. He is pleasantly surprised, as a rule, to see v^^hat a large 

 number hatch after all. The fish drops from ten to twenty eggs at a 

 time, and after short intermissions repeats the operation. A complete 

 spawning of a medium-sized female runs from five hundred to one 

 thousand eggs. Large fish not infreciuently spawn over three thou- 

 sand. This refers to the first breeding of the season. As previously 

 remarked, subsequent spawnings are considerably smaller. As the 

 plants become covered with eggs they should be removed from time to 

 time, allowing a few minutes for the last deposit to become fertilized. 

 The eggs when dropped are slightly flattened. They have a tiny pore, 

 and as the egg rounds itself like a rubber ball that has been squeezed, 

 it sucks in water charged with the spermatic fluid, thus helping impreg- 

 nate itself. The egg-covered plants should be removed to large enamel 

 receptacles, containing clean water of the same temperature as breed- 

 ing tank. Enamel is not absolutely necessary, but is desirable in the 

 early stages, as it facilitates observation. If more convenient, the 

 fish may be removed after spawning and allow the eggs to hatch 

 where they have fallen. One of our leading breeders makes an 

 egg-trap composed of a number of bunches of myriophyllum, secured 

 together in a radiating circle, like the spokes of a wheel. About 10 

 bunches are used. The tinfoil is removed from each and tied again 

 with thread. The same thread is carried half an inch to the next 

 bimch, and so on until they are all arranged on a string, which is then 

 knotted together in the form of a circle. The fishes spawn in this with 

 their heads to the centre, and as the eggs are discharged in the direc- 

 tion of the rays of plants, the chances of the eggs finding a lodging 

 place in them are very good. Such a circle need not be removed until 

 well filled with eggs. Some females eat their own spawn, so removal 

 of eggs is safer if hyacinths or small bunches of myriophyllum are 

 used. No snails should be present, as they eat the eggs. However, 

 after the eggs have hatched, the snails should be used to eat the infer- 

 tile ones. 



The development of the embryo under the microscope is plainly 

 observable and is extremely interesting. The hatching time is from 

 four to fourteen days, according to temperature. At a temperature 

 ranging from 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit they should take from five to 

 seven days. This is considered to produce stronger fish than a slow 

 hatching. The hatching trays and young fish should be kept in a 



