214 AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION 



solder from any corner that does not stand true without forcing and 

 re-solder. In the upper-right corner of illustration will be noted a 

 right-angle flange reinforcement, cut from a flat piece of 1/16-inch 

 brass. It is advisable to use these. They add greatly to the strength 

 and actually make the work of soldering easier. After preparing the 

 surfaces with solder-flux it is only necessary to place solder on the 

 frame, lay the flange on top of it and apply torch beneath. When 

 solder melts, press flange down and into exact position with a small 

 stick of wood. It is better to have flanges sufficiently narrow to 

 allow the uprights to fit in back of them. 



The same form can be used for upper and lower frames. Should 

 there be any irregularity in shape, they will both be alike, and so far 

 as strength is concerned, it will only be necessary to keep correspond- 

 ing defective corners parallel with each other, so as not to make any 

 twisting strain on the glass — a force which, sooner or later, will cause 

 it to break. If the frame is too large for a board, it may be trued by 

 lines drawn on floor or table to lay it over. The use of forms, how- 

 ever, is so desirable to the amateur that we recommend having boards 

 rabbeted together in order to secure sufficient width. 



To test the squareness of upper and lower frames, lay them on 

 the floor, make marks at the corners and turn completely over, trying 

 both length and width in this way. Tests by squares at corners are 

 only approximate, as the angle metal is seldom perfectly straight, 

 especially lighter brass. Before leaving the subject of bending the 

 frames to right-angles, we strongly suggest that an experimental bend 

 first be made with a waste piece of angle brass. A little practice will 

 be necessary to learn just how thin a particular lot of brass must be 

 filed in order to make a good bend. 



The next step is to bore holes in the lower frame where it is ,to be 

 bolted through the base, countersinking for depression of bolt or rivet 

 head, and allowing enough rooin not to interfere with the glass. Now 

 solder in uprights at perfect right angles to inside of top and bottom 

 frames, being careful not to use enough heat to melt former soldering. 



It will be observed that the glass will be supported by the upright 

 posts, but not by the top nor bottom frames. This is corrected by 

 soldering, about every eight inches, a small piece of brass (cut from 

 the same material) to the horizontal frames next to where the glass 

 is to come, thus giving it even support or bearing on all four edges. 

 The pieces are soldered down perfectly flat, and if high should be 

 filed down. Before the glass is finally inserted it must be laid in the 

 frame to see that the points of contact are even. Deficiencies can be 

 made up by a drop of solder on the brass, and filed down as required. 



